TAKE FIVE: IMPORTANT BOTTLES IN THE LIFE OF PETER GAGO

The young Gago first became entranced by wine while a student at Melbourne University. ‘I started collecting right from the start. A lot of early 1970s Penfolds, including Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon – I paid $19.95 at High Y Cellars in Ashburton. That was a lot of money then. I recently opened one of those for a friend’s 50th birthday. It was 1969, from a very wet year, but it drank remarkably well.’

Gago also invested in 1950s Seppelt Great Western reds, Henri Jayer Burgundies including Echézeaux and Cros Parantoux by the case, and Wynns Coonawarras from the 1950s when Wynns had a clearing sale. ‘While my mates were buying cars, I was buying great wine. I could buy houses with those wines now!’

AN OLD PENFOLDS, ST HENRI (probably 1962)

‘I say “probably” because I don’t really know – it was the first “proper” red I ever tasted, with a friend, when we were both very young. I suspect it was oxidised (it came from a long-sitting decanter). Ironically I didn’t return to this “style” for many years, as I was told upon sipping that “this is a wine my auntie drinks” – not a great endorsement for a pubescent male. I know better now!’

CHATEAU LATOUR 1878 (from magnum)

‘Sorry... but, at an intimate dinner at the château in Pauillac, its very generous president Frédéric Engerer poured only the great vintages of Latour up to the nineties (the 1990s!): perfectly curated bottles that had never left the property. This magnum of 1878 was impeccable. Resplendent for 20 minutes in the glass before flinching – a Bordeaux time-capsule.’

KRUG 1943

‘I’m not sure whether this is a recognised great vintage or not... yet it is undeniably from Krug’s 100th anniversary year, and created two years prior to the end of World War II. Memorable, because I suspect there was a zero left off its price! Shared with two friends in London. Little bubble, dormant at first. And then... an amazing release that defied its age.’

HENRI JAYER, ECHEZEAUX 1978

‘Bought at release in Melbourne, and in some quantity, along with many other gems from the late, great Henri – at a time before the Jayer fame (and pricing) had reached Australia. Cases and cases of his wines shared with friends. Sadly, but a handful cellared. No matter. Certainly our instant conversion to the spoils of Burgundy and Pinot Noir – without endorsement!’

PENFOLDS, GRANGE CABERNET 1953

‘None other than a Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon from 1888-planted vines at Kalimna, a 4ha Penfolds monopole. Perceptually, a “non-conforming” Penfolds red – single-vineyard/Cabernet/Barossa! This particular bottle I remember completely overwhelmed the senses.’