Eight producers to know
CASTELLO NIPOZZANO
Overlooking the Arno river, this is one of the well-regarded estates belonging to the Frescobaldi family, which has 700-plus years of wine-growing behind it. Live-wire Lamberto Frescobaldi has made Nipozzano more biodiverse, its vineyard now more of a mixed farm. The wines reflect this in more evident balance and style. There is a real juiciness and rigour here now, especially in the Rùfina wines, Montesodi being the flagship.
COLOGNOLE
The Colognole estate in Pontassieve commune was once a military tower built during the Florentine Republic (1115-1532). Such lookout points often make great vineyard sites and Colognole’s vineyards are no exception. Rocky schistous clay soils give Colognole’s Rùfina reds their smoothness and staying power. The estate has belonged to the Spalletti family since 1892. Gabriella Spalletti Trivelli has been at the helm since the early 1990s, with her sons Cesare and Mario.
FATTORIA I VERONI
One of Pontassieve’s organic estates. Lorenzo Mariani is the fourth generation here. When it was his turn to take over the family’s farm, he told me, ‘you either abandon it or you relaunch it’. He chose the latter route, encouraged by legends Vittorio Frescobaldi of Castello Nipozzano and Francesco Giuntini of Fattoria Selvapiana. Mariani’s flagship Chianti Rùfina is the Vigneto Quona Riserva aged in Garbellotto oak vats.
FATTORIA LAVACCHIO
A certified organic and practising biodynamic estate located in Pontassieve commune. Owner Faye Lottero’s family acquired it in 1978. Rocky schistous clay soils make for ripe wines with evident juiciness. The wines that stand out, including Cedro and Puro, are made with no added sulphites. I found Lottero’s early attempts in 2011 a bit hit-and-miss, but current examples have evident clarity and juiciness.
FATTORIA SELVAPIANA
Yet another acknowledged benchmark for Chianti Rùfina DOCG reds, as well as Rùfina Vin Santo DOC and unmissable olive oil. Under Federico Giuntini, superlative reds such as Vigneto Bucerchiale and Vigneto Erchi Riserva have shown the Rùfina region’s aptitude for single-site wines via their drive, depth and finesse. Giuntini sees Bucerchiale as a powerful Rùfina, with notable vibrancy of fruit that characterises the Selvapiana wines in general. Certified organic.
FRASCOLE
This is one of those rare estates where everything seems to slot into place with minimal fanfare. But over the last two decades or more, founders and owners Enrico Lippi and Elisa Santoni have poured heart and soul into what is now, in my view, one of the best and most enjoyable sources of Sangiovese you are likely to find not just in Tuscany, but anywhere else. Genetically unique old vines, great terroir, beautifully made. Certified organic.
PODERE IL POZZO
An offshoot of the well-regarded Cantine Fratelli Bellini merchant house, and another organic Pontassieve estate. The Bellini family bought the vines in 1998. They lie on the right bank of the Sieve, overlooking Rùfina itself. The oldest vineyards dated from the 1960s and included a wealth of heritage strains (biotypes) of typical local varieties. The wines are made with both drinkability and accessibility in mind and really shine with a couple of years in bottle.
VILLA DI VETRICE
Another organic Pontassieve estate. The Grati family has owned the estate and been producing Chianti Rùfina wines over five generations. The majority of its 100ha-plus vineyard comprises Sangiovese, as well as other traditional Tuscan red varieties such as Colorino di Valdarno and Canaiolo Nero. The latter was once widely grown and well regarded here – it was trained up trees, and added structure to the blend. Villa di Vetrice’s modern-classic oaked Rùfina Riservas open up superbly with decanting.