Waldin’s pick: delightful Sangiovese from Chianti Rùfina
1 Fattoria Selvapiana, Vigneto Bucerchiale Riserva 2017 97
£20 (ib)-£32.99 Nicholson’s, Vinvm, Wine Direct Fattoria Selvapiana, one of Rùfina’s modest superstars, is defined by its low-key profile and red wines that combine generously free-flowing fruit and faultless terroir expression. The lovely light tang in every sip stems from a mix of clay-limestone that provides fatness and juiciness, while schist or galestro engenders underlying depth. Organic. Drink 2025-2045 Alcohol 14.5%
Frascole, Riserva 2017 97
£19 The Wine Society
Only 7,000 bottles of this Riserva were made and it’s a beauty in terms of the freshness and directness of the fruit. It comes from the estate’s stoniest and highest vineyard. On the palate the texture of both its fruit and oak tannins from barrel ageing provide a wonderfully smooth, bright and mouthwatering ride. Organic. Drink 2025-2050 Alc 14.5%
2 Castello Nipozzano, Riserva 2018 96
£19.95-£22.99 Corking Wines, Exel, Great Wines Direct, Hallgarten Wines, Stricly Wine
A crunchy Rùfina mainly from 1970s Sangiovese vines with dashes of both local heritage and international varieties, too. Fermentation in stainless steel precedes 24 months in concrete and large, second-fill oak vats. Its bright scarlet hues mirror equally bright and deliciously savoury fruit. The compact palate provides coherent interplay between fruit and tannin with no sense of overripeness or oaky angularity. Mouthwatering now, but resist so its texture evens out fully. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 13.5%
Prunatelli, Borgo Prunatelli Riserva 2016 96
POA The Wine Society
The Grati family has centuries-old roots in the Rùfina region, and has amassed sizeable vineyards. Its Borgo Prunatelli vineyards comprise old vines on hilly terrain. The mainly Sangiovese vineyards are dotted with rare minor heritage grape varieties such as the tarry Sanforte and the red-fleshed Abrostine and Colorino. This is a likeable yet forthright food red, worth decanting 24 hours in advance. Organic.
Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13.5% 3 Colognole 2017 95
£17.95 (2016) Friarwood
A classic Chianti Rùfina from an historic estate whose very well-expressed, free-flowing red (Sangiovese mainly) and darker bramble fruit flavours (Colorino) are supported by beds of engagingly juicy fruit tannins. Their softness and freshness is thanks in part to both a coolish, slow, infusion-like fermentation followed by ageing in a well-chosen mix of Slavonian and French oak. This forges smoothness on the mid-palate and gives maximum flow to the fruit. The result is mouth-cleansing and very Rùfina. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14%
Fattoria Lavacchio, Ludiè 2019 95
N/A UK fattorialavacchio.com
Ludiè is made from 1.8ha of Sangiovese planted in the early 1960s, a time of huge agricultural and social upheavel in Tuscany. Faye Lottero’s family’s wines have gone up several notches in recent times, showing much more brightness and smoothness, complexity and ambition. It’s worth the effort, for Sangiovese vines which are genetically identical but individually do their own thing, bestowing a naturally complex and silky weave to this organic wine. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5% D