FIVE OF THE BEST: XO COGNACS
Cognac’s status as a luxury lifestyle statement hangs upon the quality of its XO (Extra Old) expressions. Houses are only allowed to label a Cognac as XO when the youngest brandy in the blend has been aged in cask for 10 years.
1 Delamain Pale & Dry Centenaire XO
£84.95-£99/50cl Distillers Direct, Drink Finder, Drinks Direct, House of Malt, Master of Malt, The Bottle Club, The Drink Shop, The General Wine Co, The Whisky Exchange
A new incarnation of this 100-year-old classic, which now has a higher abv, a smaller bottle and notably more intense floral aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, merging into lip-smacking tropical fruit and citrus notes. Creamy Madagascan vanilla, a glorious texture and a supremely long finish. Retains all the harmony and charm of the original. Alcohol 42%
2 Frapin Château de Fontpinot XO
£97.45-£135/70cl Fortnum & Mason, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange
Frapin is something of an XO specialist – the roster of expressions runs into double figures – but this single-property Cognac remains the house’s benchmark, and superbly encapsulates the house style. Pressed flowers and light dried apricot, then soft vanilla and gently roasted almond. Perfectly balanced and utterly seamless. Alc 41%
3 Hennessy XO
£130.40-£152/70cl Clos19, Distillers Direct, KWM, Laithwaites, The Bottle Club, The Champagne Co, The Whisky Exchange, VIP Bottles, Wheelers Luxury Gifts Maurice Hennessy is reputed to have created the Extra Old (XO) term more than 150 years ago, and this remains, for many, the epitome of the style. We’re leaving delicacy behind here and moving into powerful, rich and spicy territory, with lots of wood-driven smoke and tangy, dried fruit. Dark chocolate, clove and peppercorn come through on a robust and wellstructured palate. Alc 40%
4 Hine Antique XO
£119-£140/70cl Amazon UK, House of Malt, Master of Malt, Spiritly, The Bottle Club,
The Champagne Co, The Whisky Exchange, Ultimate Drinks, Valvona & Crolla, VIP Bottles
Like Delamain’s Pale & Dry, this old favourite has recently celebrated its 100th birthday, and time hasn’t diminished its superlative quality one jot. Hine’s vinous style comes to the fore here: all delicacy and finesse, but with a deceptive structure and evolved character from the inclusion of decades-old eaux-de-vie. Alc 40%
5 Jean Fillioux Grande Réserve XO
£86.99-£96.99/70cl Master of Malt,
Scotch Whisky World, Shop4whisky
An independent family domaine with a link to successive Hennessy master distillers, Jean Fillioux has about 20ha of vineyard in the heart of Grande Champagne. Bottled at an unusually high strength, this has great intensity and complexity, with more flavours leaping from the glass the longer you leave it: peaches in syrup, orange blossom, dark honey and cigar humidor. Alc 44% D
For more on this subject, Richard Woodard will be writing about provenance in Cognac in the December issue of Decanter