Food & wine wisdom
Decanter contributing editor Fiona Beckett shares her food and wine pairing expertise
FAIR WEATHER FRIEND PHEASANT
Now that pheasant is rarely hung until it’s falling apart, it’s a much easier proposition to match. Previously the wine – usually something like Côte-Rôtie or a mature Barolo – would have had to be old and gamey, too, and if that’s how you like it, don’t let me discourage you. But a less well-hung pheasant is still a perfect match for a good red Bordeaux, Burgundy or Brunello, or a top Syrah with a bit of bottle age. Once the season moves on and you’re pot-roasting it, you may want something a bit more robust – a good Grenache, say, or GSM blend (I’m thinking Gigondas). We really are in red wine territory here, except when you serve pheasant with apple, in which case reach for a mature German or grand cru Alsace Riesling, or even a Pinot Gris.
TRICKY CUSTOMER EPOISSES
I’m going against conventional wisdom here as in Burgundy, home of Epoisses, they reckon it goes well with the local red Pinot Noirs, but for me this cheese is far too strong, particularly at the stage where it’s oozing off the plate. Certainly not your most treasured bottles anyway. Personally I’d go for a Sauternes or a similar sweet wine from Bordeaux, as I think the slight bitterness of a washed-rind cheese benefits from a touch of sweetness. Or even something stronger: a marc de Bourgogne pomace brandy will stand up to the more pungent examples. You could also try Alsace Gewurztraminer, which is locally paired with a similar washed-rind cheese, Munster, but should also work well with Epoisses. Good bread, crackers or a spiced apple compote will make it more wine-friendly too.
For more food and wine pairings check out Fiona’s website matchingfoodandwine.com ▶