EXPLAINED Wine aromas
The science of the development of wine aromas, and their relationship with one another, is an ongoing area of study. However, we can split key aromas into three broad types.
PRIMARY AROMAS
This is all about the initial smells considered to emerge from the grape variety itself, whether it’s the menthol and rich cassis in some young Cabernet Sauvignon wines or that lychee note in your Gewürztraminer. Riper styles of Chardonnay in warmer climates may naturally lean towards the tropical end of the fruit spectrum, while cooler Chablis is more generally associated with apple and stone fruit, for example. (See ‘Tasting Notes Decoded’ on decanter.com for more on typical varietal characteristics.)
Climate and winemaking decisions can affect the intensity and complexion of aromas, of course. When a winemaker has purposely sought to emphasise the fruit – by fermenting in stainless steel, for example, or perhaps concrete tanks with little or no oak contact – then you can expect the primary aromas to dominate.
SECONDARY AROMAS
These derive from the winemaking process, though it is open to interpretation. As the late Gerard Basset OBE MW MS replied in a response to a Decanter reader question in 2016: ‘In serious wine-tasting manuals, secondary aroma is used in relation to the smell of fermentation.
But to me, the term should refer to all the smells of vinification – in effect all the smells that are neither from the grape nor from ageing [in bottle].’
Examples include vanilla spice or toasty notes from oak, or the buttery, creamy aromas that can indicate malolactic fermentation – a process that softens acidity in a wine. Lees contact (see p89) gives the bread-like, brioche notes that can be found in some Champagnes.
TERTIARY AROMAS
Tertiary aromas are those that emerge with bottle age. Wines capable of ageing will lose part, or almost all, of their primary aromas and after a few years will develop aromas of maturation.
Common tertiary notes for red wines include leather, truffle, cigar box, forest floor, tobacco, cedar and mushroom.
In white wines, nutty, mushroom or honey notes can develop, while petrol or kerosene is an aroma often associated with aged Riesling.
WINE AROMAS: IN THE GLASS Montes, Reserva Chardonnay, Aconcagua, Chile 2020 90
£9.99 Waitrose Cellar
A great everyday drinking wine from one of Chile’s largest wine producers. There’s a whole lot of ripeness here! Prepare to be bowled over by a medley of tropical fruit: lychee, honeydew melon, mango, banana pineapple. This is balanced out by high, pingy acidity and spiced vanilla oak that is nicely integrated. Pleasant apple and peach-skin finish – a lot of wine for £10. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5%
D de Colmar, Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France 2019 89
£9 Tesco
A textbook Gewurz, which has 11g/L of residual sugar but also sufficient acidity to make that seem far lower. The grapes were grown on steep, southeast-facing slopes and produce a deeply aromatic and perfumed wine with golden hints in the glass. There’s an intensity of apricot and lychee fruit, with a suggestion of rosewater and ginger too. Try this with spicy food and you’ll discover a match made in heaven.
Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%
Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan CCG, Bordeaux 1998 93
£120-£153 Delivery Wine Co, Nemo Wine Cellars Gently smoked bracken with stirrings of tertiary character show we are reaching the full expression of this wine. There is a softness to the tannins that is extremely enjoyable and a silkiness that perfectly showcases the balance and elegance of Haut-Bailly in full flight. Savoury raspberry and blackberry fruits with sappy acidities give a juicy finish – this is made for drinking pleasure. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.5%