Château-Grillet: a selection of haute-couture Viogniers

Château-Grillet 2019 97

US$185 Morrell & Co

A real burst of fresh apricot and peach, lemon verbena, green tea. Very full-bodied indeed, very round. Has the salt and power of Château-Grillet, the confit lemon peel on the finish, the salted nuts. Very long. Very rounded but not massive, more spherical. You sense the alcohol, but it’s not unbalanced. Organic; 4,500 bottles made. Drink 2022-2030 Alcohol 15%

Château-Grillet 2016 97

£475 (ib) Farr Vintners

There’s a hint of petrol reminiscent of a Riesling and high-toned florality on the nose. It’s generous on the tongue but not fat. Mineral, dry and austere. Good length, stays tight and tucked in on the finish. Touch of pink grapefruit, but it’s more about sensation and texture than aromatics. Great tension and freshness. Organic. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14%

Château-Grillet 2015 97

US$450-$550 J Emerson, Rye Brook, Westchester Wine

A generous, opulent style, with ample glycerol roundness countered by assertive acidity, considering the heat of the vintage. Retains that salty, mineral effect on the palate, well balanced despite its breadth. Lovely, oily, mouthcoating richness and salty minerals with some lemony nut butter on the finish. Great energy for a 2015; 1,700 bottles made. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 15.5%

Château-Grillet 2017 96

£500 (ib) Farr Vintners

Honeysuckle, lemon verbena and lemon on the nose. Full-bodied, fairly opulent, it begins richer than a typical vintage of Château-Grillet, but the finish has searing tension and vibrancy, like a corset. Not as long and straight as the 2016, more immediately aromatic and broader, but in many ways just as good. High alcohol, but you don’t notice it thanks to the intense salinity. Organic. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 15.5%

Château-Grillet, La Carthery, Condrieu 2019 95

£139 Fine & Rare

Made from a few rows of Viognier in AP Condrieu at the top of the Château-Grillet amphitheatre and owned until recently by another family. A little more immediately fruity than the grand vin – apricot and peach. Very round and generous. Acidity is good, better than most this year, with a gently bitter, saline edge. Very good for a 2019 Condrieu. Closer to Château-Grillet than most. You feel the alcohol a touch, but it’s a beautiful Condrieu. Organic; 1,200 bottles made. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 15%

Château-Grillet, Côtes-du-Rhône 2017 92

US$70-$90 Le Dû, Sotheby’s Wine New York, Sterling Cellars, Wine Exchange

A copper tinge to the colour. Nose is discreet, with warm apricot fruits. Full on the attack – richer than the 2016 Côtes-du-Rhône – but then relaxes quickly, with a pithy backnote on the palate. There’s a mineral twang on the finish, alcohol is a little on the high side, but the acidity and salinity bring balance. Organic.

Drink 2022-2023 Alc 14.5% D