BIODYNAMICS: IN THE GLASS

Louis Roederer, Cristal, Champagne, France 2013 96

£225-£250 Widely available

A soft gold with glistening highlights; the nose effortlessly marries a panoply of flavours, the citric grip nodding to hints of passion fruit and Mirabelle plum, with hazelnut and almond signalling the grace of development. Texturally generous yet tightly wound, taut and flinty yet ripe and open, every nuance of its template is deftly rehearsed and charmingly enacted. Disgorged autumn 2020, dosage 7.5g/L.

Drink 2022-2033 Alcohol 12.5%

Reyneke, Biodynamic Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2019 94

£19-£20.75 EW Wines, JN Wine, Lekker Wines, Roberson, Roberts & Speight, Wines with Attitude

A vital Chenin from the oldest vineyards on the Reyneke farm. Whole-bunch pressed then naturally fermented in new and seasoned barriques plus 2,500L foudres, with 10 months on lees. Aromas of white peach, lemongrass, ginger, exotic spice and florals lead to a lengthy, mid-weight palate. Great tension and drive, with sea spray freshness lifting flavours of nougat, quince and papaya. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 12%

Clos Puy Arnaud, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2020 94

£21.17 (ib) Uncorked

With a burst of ripe berry fruit on the nose, this has a gorgeous depth of expression. More tannic than in many years, but this 2020 is not bitter or tight; an excellent wine walking the line of power and sappy juice. The blend is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon – 10% new oak and the rest in large oak vats and amphorae. Unfined and unfiltered, certified biodynamic. Drink 2023-2036 Alc 14%