Ask Decanter
Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your questions to editor@decanter.com
AGED AROMAS In your explanation of wine aromas
(‘Wine wisdom’, November 2021 issue), you define tertiary aromas as those that emerge with bottle age. According to the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, tertiary aromas have their origin in the ageing process. So, are tertiary aromas a direct consequence of bottle ageing, or the ageing process overall, including time spent in oak?
Robin Parr, by email Lydia Harrison, head of education and events at WSET School London, replies:
At WSET we distinguish between primary aromas (from the grape), secondary aromas (from winemaking, such as barrel ageing and lees stirring) and tertiary aromas (from ageing). Tertiary aromas, such as dried fruit or leather, are therefore attributed to ageing, which definitely includes, but is not limited to, bottle ageing.
Tertiary aromas could also evolve from extended maturation in other vessels, such as oak casks or vats; however, we distinguish between the secondary aromas directly imparted from the wood, such as vanilla and smoke, and tertiary aromas that can evolve from oxygen contact that passes through the wood. Therefore, from a WSET perspective, tertiary aromas are a direct consequence of bottle ageing, but are not derived exclusively from this type of ageing.
DUTY FREE RULES
Following your ‘Ask Decanter’ response (December 2021), am I to understand that if you bring back even one bottle over the allowance, then duty is paid on all bottles? Also, what checks are in place on travellers returning by car? Robert Gravett, by email
Anthony Rose, Decanter contributor, replies: The duty-free limit on still wine is 18 litres, so on 19 litres of wine or more, you must pay tax and duty on all of it because you have gone over your 18-litre allowance. It’s the end of the road for those who like to buy their wines at UK duty-free prices at EU vineyards or near Calais. If bringing goods into Northern Ireland however, as before Brexit, there is no limit on goods for personal use.
On returning to the UK by car, most ports and airports have a red and a green channel – some have one channel, with a red phone if you need to declare anything. You use the green channel if travelling with goods that don’t exceed the allowances, red if you have goods to declare.
Anecdotally, there don’t appear to be many checks, and while you may not be eliminated, Squid Game-style, if you fall foul of the green light/red light channels, to be on the safe side you should use the HMRC online declaration service from five days before arriving in the UK.
See gov.uk/travel-abroad for more information on limits and online declarations, or call the HMRC helpline: 0300 322 9434.
WHITE RHONE & FOOD Can you suggest the best dishes to pair with white Châteauneuf-du-Pape?
Nick Robertson, Exeter
Fiona Beckett, Decanter contributing editor, replies: It takes time for white Châteauneuf-du-Pape to show at its best and to develop the complex, savoury character that makes it such a rewarding glass of wine. It’s a natural partner for white meats, especially pork – it’s hard to think of a better companion for a rare-breed pork chop; or a veal chop, come to that.
As far as poultry is concerned, it’s excellent with turkey, especially with a chestnut stuffing. You may have missed the boat on that this year, but guinea fowl would make a good stand-in. It’s a natural for rich fish such as roast turbot. And don’t overlook it with root vegetables either – I’m thinking principally of a whole roast celeriac, which would make a very fine match.