Gian Luca Colombo

At 38, Gian Luca Colombo (above) is one of the youngest consultant oenologists in this group, living and working in Piedmont. Colombo has studied with many well-known consultants, including Sergio Molino and Donato Lanati. In 2011, he founded Segni di Langa with 4ha of rented vineyards in Roddi, and in 2014 he won the Gambelli Award for Best Young Italian Oenologist.

Since then, producers such as Alberto Burzi, Garesio Vini and Diego Conterno, among others, have employed Colombo to advise on their wines. He styles himself as a ‘true garagista’, literally making wines in the garage underneath his house.

I first came across Colombo’s wines at the regional consorzio’s biennial Grandi Langhe tasting in Alba (grandilanghe.com) a few years ago, and recognised that he had a special gift for Barbera and was making delicious Pinot Noir. In September 2019, we walked through his vineyards looking at Nebbiolo and old Barbera vines and I witnessed his meticulous care and attention to detail. He uses sustainable practices and is working towards organic and biodynamic conversion.

Colombo believes it is important to continue to learn: ‘Today, I am buying and tasting a lot from all wine regions. It is really important to keep updated and open-minded.’ He describes his style as ‘neo-classical’, matching ‘new know-how and old traditions’. His wines all have a beautiful clarity of aromas, and the tannins are very refined and reflect a modern and sophisticated approach. He has recently added a Barolo to his portfolio. Segni di Langa, Barolo, Piedmont 2017 94 £55.25 Astrum Wine Cellars, Bottles ’n’ Jars, Field & Fawcett, Sociovino Colombo’s own Barolo (pictured below) is a product of two different vineyards: Bricco Ambrogio, which produces more delicate aromatics, and Bussia, which has more power but ‘always ripe tannins’. With a lovely delicate fragrance of strawberries, cream and violet, it’s modern, clean and bright while still being traditional at heart. Very elegant, with fine, chalky tannins. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 14.5%

Alberto Burzi, Capalot, La Morra, Barolo, Piedmont 2016 93 £42.95 Baglio

The south-facing Capalot vineyard at 300m is the oldest on this estate, with its 80-year-old vines. Made from a special clone of Nebbiolo with looser clusters and small berries (enabling perfect ripening), this appealing wine has sweet cherry and fresh earth notes, accompanied by a lovely soft, plump texture and very fine tannins. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 15%

Diego Conterno, Ginestra, Monforte d’Alba, Barolo, Piedmont 2016 93 £65 Jeroboams, The Solent Cellar

Conterno’s Ginestra vineyard is on the south-facing part of Monforte d’Alba, home to some of the most profound Barolo. This has a classic Barolo nose, with macerated cherries, spice and leather notes, and is compact and forceful on the palate, where dark berry and woodland flavours interweave with oak spice. Organic. Drink 2022-2036 Alc 15%