Gathering pace: Monferrato DOC Nebbiolo
Prior to 2019, Nebbiolo wines in Monferrato were only entitled to the Monferrato Rosso DOC. ‘It was a handicap not being able to name the grape variety on the label,’ says Villa Giada’s Andrea Faccio. Finally approved, the new denomination stipulates a minimum of 90% Nebbiolo in two categories:
Monferrato Nebbiolo must age for 12 months before release, while those labelled Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore require at least 18 months, including six in wood. Maximum yields are 63hl/ha and 56hl/ha respectively.
To date, the inaugural 2019 vintage is the only one to have been fully declared at just 122,000 bottles, and 2020 numbers have yet to be finalised. However, the denomination is set to grow: as of October 2021, the consorzio recorded 248ha of Nebbiolo, which represents a twofold increase since the date of approval.
Despite this increase, plantings of Nebbiolo remain limited. ‘I don’t think we will see a conversion to Nebbiolo,’ asserts Ermanno Accornero, a producer in Vignale Monferrato. ‘Our territory remains principally designated for Barbera and Grignolino.’ Faccio, however, does see a potential risk of Nebbiolo being planted on unsuitable sites, especially as Nebbiolo grapes command a higher price than Barbera. ‘If it isn’t planted in the right spot, it’s hard to make even a mediocre wine. Hopefully, appropriate controls will ensure that this doesn’t occur,’ he says.
Stefano Chiarlo at Michele Chiarlo says the area around San Marzano Oliveto and Moasca in southern Asti is well suited. ‘The soil is the same Tortonian geological matrix similar to La Morra [in the Barolo region],’ he explains. In Vignale, further north, Accornero says the Nebbiolo is ‘more robust, full-bodied and structured’ than Barolo.
Nebbiolo from Monferrato is inevitably different from its Langhe brethren. Those I have so far sampled may not show the precision and finesse of Barbaresco and Barolo, but they do exhibit personality of place. Given the ageing requirements, wines labelled Monferrato Nebbiolo are only just trickling onto the market. Villa Giada’s Treponti, Accornero’s Girotondo and Il Falchetto’s Barbarossa are all worth seeking out, though pre-2019 bottlings still bear the Monferrato Rosso DOC.