Morris selects: six Monferrato reds to explore
1 Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta, Sant’Emiliano Superiore, Barbera d'Asti 2017 93
£23.75 Ledbury Wine
Barrique-aged Barbera from a south-facing vineyard just north of the Nizza zone. Polished toasty oak leaves room for pretty floral scents and an appetising mix of blackberry and dark strawberry. Rose, violet and vanilla join in on the palate. Perfectly put together with supple, velvety tannins wrapping a succulent, plush core. Drink 2022-2029 Alcohol 15%
2 Coppo, Bric del Marchese, Nizza 2018 92
£61 Mondial Wine
Coppo makes three Nizza bottlings to highlight the diverse areas within this denomination. Bric del Marchese is in the heart of the zone on silty marl soil, giving a powerful wine. It is unabashedly oaked, ageing predominantly in new barriques. Aromas of coffee, smoky incense and baking spice mingle with macerated cherry. With a rich, round, chocolate-tinged palate, Barbera’s brilliant acidity keeps it from being heavy. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 16%
3 La Spinetta, Pin, Monferrato 2017 92
£39.99-£44.66 (2016) AG Wines, Chiltern Wines, Great Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co
Dedicated to Giorgio Rivetti’s father, who was nicknamed Pin. Cedar, eucalyptus and pressed flowers open to intriguing notes of sweet wild raspberry, cocoa and liquorice. At the moment, the palate is slightly angular with dusty tannins and tangy, concentrated acidity. Wait a year or so for the oak to settle in and the structure to soften. Lots to chew on here: 65% Nebbiolo, 35% Barbera. Drink 2023-2031 Alc 14.5%
Olim Bauda, Isolavilla, Grignolino d’Asti 2020 90
£14.99 (2018) Virgin Wines
Low-yielding vines pushing 70 years old on light, sandy marl rich in marine fossils. Pale garnet in colour, it explodes with rose and rosehip scents, while cranberry, redcurrant and menthol pop on the palate. Tart acidity and mouth-scrubbing tannins refresh the palate. Light, lean and simply delightful, give it a slight chill and serve with salumi.
Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13.5%
La Gironda, La Gena Superiore, Barbera d’Asti 2018 89
N/A UK lagironda.com
La Gena was the Galandrino family’s first Barbera in 2000. This 2018 is restrained but compelling, hinting at truffles, woodland, herbs and spice. Silky and smooth, the palate is wonderfully fruity, not cluttered by obvious oak. It shows good depth of flavour with soft tannins and a flattering creaminess. Refreshing acidity stimulates the appetite. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 15%
Villa Giada, Treponti, Monferrato 2016 89
£17.85 (2015) Bat and Bottle
Andrea Faccio planted Nebbiolo in the Nizza township of Agliano Terme in 1998 after trying his neighbour’s bottling. Surprisingly youthful, this is very bright and Barbera-esque with intense red cherry and hints of mint and pepper around the edges. Lovely purity and a cheerful frankness on the palate. Chalky textured tannins clamp down on the finish, yet it remains approachable. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 14% D