Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG
1 Bortolomiol, 70th Anniversary Rive di Col San Martino Extra Brut 2020 94
N/A UK bortolomiol.com
This is the first vintage of a refined limited edition sourced from the Col San Martino slopes, which are noted for producing fresh, crisp wines with complex aromas. There is lemon and lime, with a hint of bergamot and a touch of aromatic herbs on the nose, and a very fine, creamy texture on the palate. Long and dry, with potential to evolve over two to three years. Drink 2022-2024 Alcohol 11.5%
2 Mongarda, Extra Brut 2020 94
N/A UK mongarda.it
The Tormena family owns 7.5ha on some of the best sites of the Farra di Soligo hills, from which the young Martino Tormena makes light, dry wines that are a masterclass in finesse. His extra dry has apple peel and green pear on the nose, with floral nuances and a faintly salty background. Fresh, agile and long, it’s got everything you could ask for in a Prosecco.
Drink 2022-2024 Alc 11.5%
3 Spagnol Col del Sas, Qundici16 Extra Brut NV 94
£21 Tannico
To get the depth and complex aromas he seeks, Marco Spagnol uses 50% reserve wine from the previous vintage in this cuvée. Pear and Parma violet notes on the nose, and a hint of seaside stones. The palate has length and complexity and the finesse that comes from long lees ageing. A great example of the less immediate, more nuanced style of Prosecco.
Drink 2022-2025 Alc 11.5%
Antica Quercia, A Sui Lieviti Brut Nature 2019 93
N/A UK anticaquercia.it
Antica Quercia is a certified organic estate at the eastern end of the DOCG. This bottle-refermented ‘A’ (for artisan) comes from a selection of the best grapes of the vintage and has 12 months on the lees. Intriguing, mature aromas of acacia honey and ripe pear, and a palate that’s satisfyingly round despite no residual sugar. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 11.5%
4 Silvano Follador, Extra Brut 2020 93
US$24.99 Astor Wines
Brother and sister Alberta and Silvano Follador have run this boutique estate since 1999, using organic methods in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar. Silvano’s trademarks – low sugar and minerally intensity – emerge to the full in the clarity
of expression of his 2020 vintage. Uncompromising, but huge personality. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 11.5%
5 Sorelle Bronca, Difetto Perfetto Sui Lieviti Brut Nature 2019 93
£19 (2017) Harvey Nichols
A new release from a producer known for its brut and extra brut single-vineyard selections, this ‘sur lie’ Prosecco maintains its impeccable standards. A pied de cuvée is used to restart fermentation in this beautifully crafted wine, which has aromas of lemon and lime, savoury herbs, almonds and brioche. Light and creamy on the palate with a long finish; simply delicious. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
Col Sandago, Costa dei Falchi Extra Brut 2020 92
£18.90 Bat and Bottle
Col Sandago sources the grapes for this selection from the calcerous-clay soils of Conegliano’s Rive di Collalto. There is citrus and a hint of aniseed on the nose, and on the palate the concentration that comes from low yields. Bone-dry and slightly austere, perhaps, but an excellent food wine that would not be daunted by tangy cheeses or mildly spicy curries.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5% US$21-$23 Kermit Lynch, The Underground Bottle Shop
By far the biggest producer of the style, the late Luigi Gregoletto maintained the artisan ‘sur lie’ tradition before it attracted international attention. His sons and daughter remain faithful to their heritage with this version of the Gregoletto classic. Intense lemon rind and dried apricot with a touch of wet stones on the nose, while broad and dry on the palate; this is the real thing. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 11.5%
Marsuret, Extra Brut NV 92
N/A UK marsuret.it
Like many growers, until the arrival of the Charmat method, the Marsura family produced artisan ‘frizzante’ by bottle refermentation. The technology has changed but the vineyards at Guia, one of Valdobbiadene’s most sought-after sites, are still the same. This is delicately floral on the nose, with structure and intensity on the palate; a superb food wine. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 11.5%
7 Sanfeletto, Bosco di Fratta Extra Brut 2020 92
US$31.99 Enoteca Vino Nostro
This long-established family-owned estate is in the east of the DOCG zone, at San Pietro di Feletto, where the red ferrous soils give wines with fresh acidity and a mineral twist. This has aromas of white peach and melon with a touch of lilac blossom, and super-fine perlage on the palate, which has tangy intensity. Closes with a long, bone-dry, savoury finish. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
8 Santa Margherita, Rive di Refrontolo Extra Brut 2020 92
£20.45 (2017) Alivini
This vineyard selection was previously released as a brut but now comes as extra brut – an indication of the general trend to reduce sugar levels. Refermented by the ‘Charmat lungo’ (extended lees-ageing) method, this has a nose of sour apple and Mediterranean scrub, with great texture on the mid-palate and a long finish. A food wine to match with risotto or baked fish. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
Adami, Col Fondo Brut Nature 2020 91
£19 Astrum Wine Cellars, D Vine Cellars, Field & Fawcett, Highbury Vintners, Sociovino, Symposium, The Whisky Exchange Franco Adami’s versatile range goes from the renowned Vigneto Giardino dry to the Col Credas extra brut. The newly released spumante version of his Col Fondo maintains the house style of pristine elegance with its tight, persistent perlage and subtle aromatic herb character. A rapier-like entry, with creamy volume on the palate and a long, firm finish make this an ideal aperitif. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
Ruggeri, Saltèr Extra Brut 2020 91
£18.50 The Great Wine Co
Ruggeri was acquired by Rotkäppchen-Mumm in 2017, but the vineyard and cellar teams have remained unchanged, as has the classical house style of its top wines. The extra brut has precisely defined notes of lemongrass and green apple, with a touch of bread crust on the nose. Very fine, perfectly integrated perlage gives elegance to the palate, which has a long, bone-dry finish. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
La Farra, Extra Brut 2020 90
£15.75 Terra Wines
Founded by the Nardi family in 1997, La Farra was one of the first estates to bottle an extra brut. The vineyards, planted 100% to Glera, are located at about 300m, on south-facing slopes that favour full aromatic ripeness. Fresh citrus, apple and spring blossom are the key notes of the 2020, together with a winning grapey quality on the palate. An attractive classic. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
Ronfini, Cuvée 5 Extra Brut NV 90
N/A UK ronfini.com
Leonardo Ronfini is the third-generation producer at this family-owned estate. For his Cuvée 5 he complements the Glera grape with the local, fairly rare, Verdiso, Bianchetta and Glera Lungo. A full-on aromatic style of wine, with a rich floral character and a toothsome palate at the soft end of extra brut. A wine of personality. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%
PROSECCO DOC ROSE
The big news from Prosecco DOC in 2021 was the rollout of Prosecco Rosé – which finally received is official approval in late 2020.
Big is the operative word: the initial release was estimated at about 60 million bottles – a demonstration of the extraordinary productive potential of the zone, which stretches from Treviso in the Veneto across Friuli-Venezia Giulia to Trieste on Italy’s eastern border with Slovenia.
Take-up of the Rosé DOC has been immediate, not least because more than half of the current Prosecco DOC producers were already making a generic sparkling rosé prior to the arrival of the new denomination. The task of the Prosecco consorzio, which coordinated the various stages of research that led to the creation of the new DOC, was to establish stylistic consistency and quality standards for this heterogeneous production and pave the way for what is destined to become the Italian pink sparkler. It would make an interesting case study.
Prosecco Rosé is based on a quite strictly defined cuvée of 85%-90% Glera and 10%-15% Pinot Nero (vinified as red wine). There was canvassing for the inclusion of native varieties such as Raboso in the Veneto or Refosco in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but Pinot Nero was the logical choice, since it has been widely grown in both regions since the late 19th century.
Refermentation is by the widely used Charmat method, in tank, and wines must age on the lees for a minimum of 60 days. Declaration of the vintage is mandatory.
Much of the research that went into the formulation of the production norms for Prosecco Rosé revolved around the fundamental issue of colour, with micro-vinification experiments juggling the variables of yield, percentages of the blend and time on lees.
The outcome is a shade of pink which corresponds closest to ‘peach’ on France’s Côtes de Provence scale and also, given the presence of Pinot Nero, recalls a pale Sancerre rosé. In terms of sugar levels, nearly three-quarters of the current production is extra dry (12-17g/L) and most of the rest is brut.
The consorzio’s declared objective is to maintain the charm and immediate appeal of Prosecco, with an extra touch of individuality.
The first impression, in this regard, is that the wines hit the spot; the Pinot adds a little structure and a note of red fruit to the gentle floral character of the Glera. At the top end of the extra dry scale, the wines may come over a little sugary for some tastes, but the drier Prosecco Rosé styles add a quintessentially Venetian touch to light fish dishes at a candlelit supper.