A taste of Romagna Sangiovese: Johansson’s six to try
1 Enio Ottaviani, Dado, Romagna 2018 93
N/A UK enioottaviani.it
Cousins Davide and Massimo Lorenzi, with Milena and Marco Tonelli, produce just 4,000 numbered bottles each year of this special project wine, the Sangiovese grapes coming from four different parcels, all vinified separately. Light ruby in colour, it has subtle and elegant aromas of wild cherry, violet, balsamic tones and wild mint. Fine-grained tannins, a silky texture and bright, refreshing acidity lead to a long, savoury finish.
Drink 2022-2030 Alcohol 13.5%
2 Giovanna Madonia, Ombroso Riserva, Romagna Bertinoro 2018 93
£24.50 Drinks & Co
Produced only in the best vintages, from bush vines in a 6ha vineyard in the Bertinoro sub-zone, this has spontaneous fermentation and extended skin contact for about 30 days followed by 12 months in French tonneaux, half new. Refined for two years in bottle, it has aromas of vibrant plum, dark cherry and wild herb nuances. Firm, tight tannins are balanced by refreshing acidity. Rich, sapid and mouthwatering, with an elegant long finish. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%
3 Villa Papiano, Probi Riserva, Romagna Modigliana 2018 93
POA Swig
From vineyards surrounded by wild nature and forests at 500m, close to the Apennines, the soil is poor and rocky. After spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast, the wine is aged for one year in concrete and large casks, and another year in bottle. Attractive nose of strawberry, sweet red cherry, black pepper and hints of dried herbs. Sophisticated tannins, a fresh yet weighty palate and generous, wonderful balance. Organic. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%
Fattoria Zerbina, Pietramora Riserva, Romagna Marzeno 2016 92
POA Dolce Vita Wines
Cristina Geminiani is one of the leading figures behind the revival of Romagna DOC. In 1985 she started to make wine on her grandfather’s property. The vineyards are planted as bush vines, and the wines have personality and technical precision. Pietramora has an elegant, restrained nose of dark plums, black cherry, dried roses, cacao and tobacco. Rich, intense fruit with grippy tannins, balanced by savoury acidity with a persistent, spicy finish. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 15%
Noelia Ricci, Il Sangiovese, Romagna Predappio 2020 92
£18-£21 Drinkmonger, Jesmond Wine Co, Kask, Mother Vine, Pip of Manor Farm, St Andrews Wine Co, Sugarbird Wines, The Good Spirits Co
This project started in 2013, the first new vintage produced by Marco Cirese, Noelia Ricci’s nephew, at family estate Tenuta Pandolfa. Made as a tribute to the fruity, fragrant Sangiovese of Romagna, fermentation and six months ageing takes place in steel. Nose of wildflowers, roses and violets with red cherry and hints of spice. On the palate, vibrant and dynamic fruit is balanced by firm yet ripe tannins and zesty acidity. Juicy, graceful finish. Organic. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13.5%
Chiara Condello, Romagna Predappio 2019 91
£16.50 Cru
Chiara Condello made wine in her father’s winery Condè, but 10 years ago bought her own vineyard in Predappio. The focus is on Sangiovese, production is artisanal, using natural yeasts, and in some cases she partially vinifies without destemming. Intense aromas of red cherry, orange zest and white pepper are followed by a palate with grippy tannins, fleshy and succulent fruit and refreshing acidity, then a pleasant, energetic finish.
Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14% D