Bordeaux 2021: around the appellations
Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac, Moulis
A number of less successful wines were encountered in these appellations, where a general lack of water stress meant grapes were large and diluted by the time harvest came around. Many estates here rely heavily on Merlot, and this suffered on the Left Bank in 2021, largely from mildew, with much of the remaining Cabernet Sauvignon struggling to ripen sufficiently, so chaptalisation was widespread (see p16).
St-Estèphe
A relatively strong performance in 2021 with some brilliant wines produced, particularly those on clay-limestone soils: clear terroir markers show through in the best. Despite 15% less rain than in 2020, and September temperatures the highest in 100 years, yields were almost identical, with many estates having been spared the spring frosts. Some wines were displaying quite austere tannins and rustic edges, but there are some highlights, too.
Pauillac
A tale of two halves here in 2021 with some spectacular wines produced, but also winemakers having to contend with a barrage of problems. Merlot in general suffered from frost and mildew, and rains in mid- and late-September meant some estates harvested quickly and before full phenolic ripeness. Those who managed the stresses of the year well and waited until October to harvest, went on to produce some stellar Cabernetdominant blends – many above 90% Cabernet – albeit with low yields, some at 15hl/ha. Some of my favourite 2021s are in Pauillac.
St-Julien
Proximity to the Gironde estuary meant that adverse effects from frost were a little less damaging here than elsewhere, with a slightly higher yield in 2021 than 2020, but mildew still caused problems for the Merlot, with a reliance on strict selection, and Cabernet (Sauvignon and Franc) as in other appellations. Perhaps a more even spread of quality than in other appellations, with a number of fantastic wines from the St-Julien gravels offering structure, aromatics and a sense of approachability.
Margaux
An excellent showing for many wines from Margaux in 2021. Average yields were higher than in 2020, but Margaux also has the highest overall yield relative to the 10-year average meaning that, despite its size and attacks of frost and mildew, it suffered a little less than other appellations in 2021. There are lots of beautifully elegant and finessed wines here, a trademark of Margaux, but in which the year’s cool-classic style was embraced and delivered successfully.
Pessac-Léognan & Graves
Frost severely impacted grapes early in 2021, mildew much more so later, with the effects lasting throughout the season to a final average yield of 30.7hl/ha, the lowest of the major appellations after St-Emilion and Pomerol. Quality is uneven given different microclimates, but the best reds and whites show lovely estate signature and work with the vintage rather than against it.
St-Emilion
There were some exceptional standouts in St-Emilion in 2021, though a mixed bag overall – unsurprising given its size. Generally estates on high, clay and
limestone terroirs fared well given the weather, as did those who could afford to reduce Merlot in favour of Cabernet (Sauvignon but also importantly Franc, which thrived in the wet conditions, giving gorgeous aromatics and silky tannins). Lower sandy soils had a harder time from frost and there were lots of wines that were hollow and diluted on the mid-palate.
Pomerol
Like St-Emilion, some of the best terroirs performed brilliantly well in 2021 with a number of excellent wines produced, even those with 100% Merlot in a year when almost all Merlots struggled. The Pomerol plateau in particular had produced a number of wines displaying wonderful terroir typicity, but also expressing the delicious cool Cabernet, low-alcohol style of 2021 that I adored tasting. A number of wines here I’d be more than happy to own and to open over the next few decades.
While not entirely homogenous, worth seeking out this year are some delicious and approachable Right Bank wines from Fronsac, Lalande-de-Pomerol and the Côtes de Bordeaux Castillon and Francs. However, small yields and increasing costs for everything from labour to glass to wooden cases might understandably see prices rise in 2021.
Sauternes & Barsac
A disastrous year for sweet wines with extremely low, if any, yields (down 71% from 2020) that saw some estates pick grape by grape off the vine. Those that did produce have triumphed with fresh, zesty and ripe flavours balanced by incredible acidity making these wines electric in 2021.
Dry whites
The long, cool growing season was ideal for the slow ripening of white grapes, particularly Sauvignon Blanc, and for building aromatic expression with both high, mouthwatering acidity and fleshy fruit in many of the best – though some wines show dilution and tartness.