The wines to match

Well, being asked to come up with a wine match for magnolia is certainly a first, and I can’t claim I’ve had vast experience of pairing the two. But Anna Higham’s description of the flavour as gingery provides a good starting point. The ice cream, too, is light and delicate, so I think you’d be looking at an equally freshtasting dessert wine or even, given the olive oil, an off-dry white. I’m intrigued by the thought of Torrontés or maybe a young Gewürztraminer or Gewürz blend.

Lighter dessert whites such as Coteaux du Layon or a young Spanish Moscatel should also work, as should off-dry and sweet sparkling wines such as pink Prosecco, Moscato d’Asti or the seductive, gently sparkling Bugey Cerdon ‘méthode ancestrale’ from Savoie, which is a real show-stopper.

One tip you might find useful. From a wine point of view it really helps to serve a crisp, home-made biscuit or shortbread which will offset the coldness of the ice cream and allow the wine to shine. (There are some delicious biscuit recipes in the back of Higham’s book.)

Try: Morrisons, La Gioiosa Rosea Brut, Veneto, Italy NV 89

£10 Morrisons

A blend of 60% Glera with other varieties, this spumante sparkling rosé from Veneto has a nose of blood orange and a hint of dust. Cranberry and more citrus on the palate, with noticeable ripe strawberry sweetness (14g/L residual sugar), balanced by good, fresh acidity. The ripe red berry fruits linger on. Drink 2022-2025 Alcohol 11%

Try: Domaine des Forges, Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin, Loire, France 2020 90

£9.99/50cl Waitrose Cellar

With attractive apricot aromas, this is delicately sweet but is a nicely balanced, lighter style of Layon from a family-owned estate run by Stéphane and Séverine Branchereau. The 40-year-old vines are planted in sand and clay over schist and quartz, grapes picked by hand, and the St-Aubin is aged in tank, seeing no oak. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12.5%