Sherry styles

Winemaking in Jerez can be traced back to the Phoenicians, and while Sherry’s halcyon days of the 1970s and 1980s are long gone, more recent times have seen, if not an upsurge, then a gently increasing tide of popularity.

Newcomers are still, however, faced with an initially confusing range of styles, and invariably have little or no idea how these wines are made in the first place. Here’s a helping hand.

Most Sherry is made from the Palomino Fino grape and starts out as a neutral, light wine which is then fortified with the addition of a grape spirit to between 15.5%-20%.

As the wine ferments in the barrel it creates a layer of yeast called flor which sits on the surface of the wine and protects it from oxidation. The thickness of this flor is key to determining the final style.

The wines age in a ‘solera’ system, which is a tiered network of casks, constantly replenished as wine is drawn off from the oldest layer for bottling. Each year’s new wine goes into the first layer of barrels and moves down through the chain until it’s fully blended and matured then eventually bottled – sometimes decades later – from the last level of casks (see sherry.wine for a full explanation).

AT A GLANCE GUIDE

• Fino Aged, and protected, under a flor layer for at least two years. Surprisingly pungent, bone-dry and needs to be served chilled. Excels with a raft of salty tapas dishes. Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe is the most famous of the fino tribe.

• Manzanilla Echoes fino in terms of production but must be aged in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (one of the three cities of the Sherry Triangle) by the coast at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river, which is reputedly the reason for its breezy, ‘salty’ bite. Sanlúcar’s increased humidity also leads to a thicker layer of flor, which is said to impart a little more freshness than in fino and stronger notes of apple, not to mention camomile (the flower’s name in Spanish is ‘manzanilla’). Sushi is an amiable partner, as is most seafood.

• Amontillado Starts out as a fino before its veil of flor is allowed to die, thereby opening the door to oxygen, which ushers in nuttiness and extra body in the wine. These tend to be dry to mediumdry and are favoured by many for combining the oxidative traits found in richer styles of Sherry with the crispness of a fino.

• Palo cortado Straddles amontillado and oloroso (below) in terms of style – often referred to as having the aromatics of the former, but the fuller-bodied palate of the latter. Palo cortado is the hardest Sherry to track down. Traditionally it came about naturally when flor failed to develop as it should. Today, this process is often not as unplanned or spontaneous.

• Oloroso Raises the bar in terms of body, flavour and alcohol. Olorosos are oxidatively aged by fortifying to at least 17% which kills the flor. They range from dry to sweet with the latter achieved by adding the desired amounts of sweet wine made from the Pedro Ximénez variety. Expect an abundance of dried fruits, nuts and caramel. Goes well with game and red meats.

• Pedro Ximénez Strap on your boots, this is an almost unparalleled sugar rush – most weigh in at 300-500g/L (compared to Sauternes, which has significantly less than half that amount). Opulent and unctuous, it is made from grapes of the same name which are dried in the sun, concentrating sugars and flavours. Coffee and chocolate desserts offer two food-matching options, although a drizzle over vanilla ice cream takes some beating.

Gonzalez Byass, Apostoles 30 Year Old Palo Cortado, Jerez, Spain 91

£19.99-£24.99/37.5cl Adnams, Majestic, NY Wines, Ocado, Waitrose, Yorkshire Vintners

This palo cortado is a real treat, and incredible value for money given that it has spent a minimum of 30 years slumbering in cask, gaining in complexity with every year that passes. It’s dark amber in colour, tangy and raisined, with warmth and nuttiness. Savour it on its own, or serve with nuts and hard cheese. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 20%

Williams & Humbert, Don Zoilo 12 Year Old Pedro Ximénez, Jerez, Spain 94

£8.50/37.5cl The Wine Society

A half-bottle for less than a tenner? A no-brainer. With 380g/L residual sugar, it’s a dessert in itself – try pairing with vanilla ice cream. Glass- and mouthcoating, it’s deep in colour and rich, with plump curranty fruit, figs and toffee. The acidity keeps it fresh, despite the whack of sugar. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 18%