Sly’s taste of Tasmania: a selection of 14 of the island’s best
1 House of Arras, Arras Grand Vintage Extra Brut 2013 98
houseofarras.com.au
Opulence on a grand scale, from its rich, persistent mousse, through the surging complex flavours that wash luxuriously across the palate. With 62% Chardonnay showing radiant personality and assured citrus flavours, everything in this blend is perfectly balanced: bright fruit, mineral drive, depth of flavour, refreshing acidity, extraordinary palate length and firm persistence. Drink 2022-2040 Alcohol 12.5%
House of Arras, Arras Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006 96
£24.59 (2004) Christopher Keiller
Made by winemaker Ed Carr since 1995, this is an assured sparkling wine, driven by bright, intense citrus flavours cased in savoury secondary notes thanks to seven years on its lees. The rounded palate is marvellously complete, from the lick of oyster shell and sea spray to brioche and baking spices. A rich, persistent mousse draws everything together through a luxurious finish. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 12.5%
Pirie, Vintage, Tamar Valley 2017 91
tamarridge.com.au
Three years on its lees has added a distinguished tone to this blend, led by
52% Pinot Noir, with roasted nut and savoury notes gripping the palate. Driven by a clean acid line, it has bright flavours of lemon curd and green apple with a yeasty complexity, giving a serious nod to French tradition. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12%
2 Jansz, Vintage Rosé 2018 94
£17.50 (ib)-£33 (2017) Harvey Nichols,
Lay & Wheeler, VinQuinn, Wine Direct
Rose petal perfume leads to a sharp crunch of raspberry that defines the front palate, but it’s the soft, creamy texture that proves most seductive. This generous vintage amplifies strawberry plushness from the 100% Pinot Noir, with two-and-a-half years on lees adding brioche and nougat. A firm acid spine gives this lean, understated rosé length and focus. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12%
3 Dawson James, Chardonnay, Derwent Valley 2018 97
£54.99 Liberty Wines, The Fine Wine Co, VinQuinn Fascinating to see the different treatment afforded to this fruit, sourced from part of the Meadowbank vineyard, and how beautifully it responds to a powerful Burgundian-style approach. Flavours are concentrated yet focused, the strong acid line amplifying freshness but also tempered by smart oak usage to frame the wine’s magnificent architecture. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 12.7%
Tolpuddle, Chardonnay, Coal River Valley 2019 97
£35 (ib)-£69.88 Cru, Cuchet & Co, Hedonism, Mummy Wine Club, Oz Wines, Vin Cognito, Wineye Understated purity defines filigree flavours. Pretty white flowers of a citrus orchard in bloom, notes of struck flint: a delicate balance between fruit and minerality. The creamy texture is sublime, underpinning rolling flavours of lemon pith, grapefruit and a lick of slate. Each nuance completes a superb portrait. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13%
4 Stargazer, Chardonnay, Coal River Valley 2021 95
£55 Blas ar Fwyd, Great Wines Direct, The Great Wine Co
There is great strength here but also judicious balance between the gentle oak, long acid line, an arresting silky texture and robust flavours. Bright preserved lemon leads out fleshy nectarine, grapefruit and a hint of roasted nuts through to a lingering savoury finish. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13.4%
Holm Oak, Chardonnay, Tamar Valley 2021 91
£20 (2019) Villeneuve Wines
Fleshy flavours of apricot and lemon pith, with spiced oak providing good framework and savoury tones. For this vintage, 60% malolactic fermentation has helped balance the high minerally acidity, and extended time on lees provides a lovely rich texture. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.5%
Stargazer, Riesling, Coal River Valley 2021 95
£37.50 The Fine Wine Co, The Great Wine Co
A firm embrace of pretty citrus blossom aromas alongside the crunch of green apple freshness. The 5% of fruit fermented on skins provides textural muscle that adds strength to the lemon pith and brûlée flavours that roll through the mid-palate. The texture is soft and playful, the finish long and satisfying. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 12%
Stargazer, Palisander Riesling, Coal River Valley 2021 94
£44 The Great Wine Co
Ten months on lees in a ceramic egg has given great chalky texture as well as heightening the subtlety of lemon curd, dried flowers and briny, oyster-shell tones. A taut acid line contributes tension and nervy energy to the sinewy palate and the bone-dry finish emphasises its slatey minerality. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 12.7%
5 Tolpuddle, Pinot Noir, Coal River Valley 2020 98
£59.95-£69.50 Alexander Hadleigh, Cru, Hedonism, KWM, Lockett Bros, Natty Boy Wines, Oz Wines, Philglas & Swiggot, The Secret Bottle Shop, Vin Cognito
The best Pinot Noir offering yet from this esteemed estate. Seductive aromas of bright red cherry and raspberry then a vibrant array of black fruits on the palate with lively spice and a velvety texture of real power and purpose. The seamless structure is sustained by an unwavering acid line that carries each element with grace and poise. A complete package. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13%
Dawson James, Pinot Noir, Derwent Valley 2020 96
£74.99 (2018) John Hattersley, The Drink Shop,
The Fine Wine Co, VinQuinn
Sourced from a portion of the Meadowbank vineyard curated to the particular specifications of winemakers Peter Dawson and Tim James, whose unobtrusive winemaking ensures real purity of fruit. Rose petal, dusty red earth and red fruit aromas leap from the glass. The silky, seductive palate is all strawberries and cream, framed by gently gripping tannins. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 12.6%
Stargazer, Pinot Noir, Coal River Valley 2021 94
£55 The Great Wine Co
A seductive nose makes an immediate impression: fresh berries, sooty stalks and stone. There is rich intensity to the full-bodied, creamy palate of dark plum, rhubarb and blackcurrant, allowing gentle sweetness to ride over a sour lick. The flavours resonate long, riding on unobtrusive tannins. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13.5%
6 Holm Oak, The Wizard Pinot Noir, Tamar Valley 2019 89
£30 Villeneuve Wines
A fuller, funkier style, boasting ripe dark cherry and spicy plum. Prominent French oak makes this seem rather chubby, but the palate firms up on the finish with savoury tannins, suggesting it will bloom with a few more years. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13.5%