The wines to match

The amount of salt you use can have a significant impact on the wine you’re drinking. In general salt (or salty foods) can make white wine taste sweeter, which may not necessarily be what you want, particularly if you’re eating seafood. It can also heighten the effect of dosage in fizz and tannins in red – though freshly ground black pepper can offset that.

In fact, despite the title, this dish is not excessively salty – it’s more about the fact it’s fried and what you add on the side by way of a dipping sauce. If you decide to accompany it with some kind of Asian dip or dressing you might be looking at something like a Grüner Veltliner or a Riesling. But for the dish on its own, I’d probably plump for fizz.

LOW-DOSAGE SPARKLING WINE

In Venice, fritto misto would be served with Prosecco, but unless you have quite a dry example (not ‘extra dry’ which is actually sweeter in style), pick any sparkling wine with a low dosage

Try: Jérémie Huchet, La Bretesche Brut Nature, Loire, France 2020 91

£19.99-£23 Bancroft, Cork & Cask, Peckham Cellars, R&H Fine Wines Made by the traditional method with the Muscadet grape Melon B, making the most of its trademark acidity, salinity and affinity with lees ageing. Creamy texture, and defined aromas of pastry, lemon curd, white grapefruit and pear. Drink 2022-2025 Alcohol 12%

CRISP, MINERAL WHITES

There are so many options. I’d be inclined to go for a Carricante from Etna, but seafood-friendly Albariño or Alvarinho would also be good, as would a Muscadet, Picpoul or Greek Assyrtiko. Basically anything crisp and dry.

Try: Idda, Bianco, Sicily, Italy 2020 93

£39.95-£41.10 Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, The Stroud Wine Co

A collaboration between leading producers Gaja from Piedmont and Graci from Etna, from local white variety Carricante. Aromas of cream, waxy lemon rind and smoke followed by zesty Sicilian lemon and white flowers. Vibrant yet gentle. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 12.5%