HOW TO TASTE OLIVE OIL

Like wine, tasting olive oil requires a specific skill set and vocabulary, developed through the understanding of both qualities and defects.

Colour is not, except in cases of obvious oxidation, an indication of quality; whether an oil is green, gold or even orange-hued is merely a function of variety, growing conditions and harvest time. This is why professional oil tasters use cobalt blue glasses, not letting colour influence their organoleptic perception and quality assessment. Some producers decide to bottle their oils unfiltered, so cloudiness is also not necessarily a defect.

The full range of volatile components is only released at 28°C, so the first step is, after pouring a tablespoon of oil in a lidded tasting cup, to cradle it in one’s hand to bring the temperature up. Following which the lid can be removed for a first sniff of the aromas and defects (see right). To assess the palate, it is important to sip enough to roll around the mouth and cover the tongue, mixing the oil with saliva, which in turn allows body and texture, in addition to flavour, to be judged. Experienced tasters will also suck in air to release more aromas.

It is essential to swallow some of the oil to assess its pungency, bitterness and spiciness, only clearly felt in the back of the throat. Green apple and water (never bread!) are the best palate cleansers to reset the palate between oils.

Main aroma/flavour categories: apple (colour, ripeness?); tomato (type, berry, leaf?); artichoke; nuts (almond, walnuts etc – fresh or toasted?); grass (freshly cut, dried?); herbs (fresh, dried?); fruits (banana, pineapple, peach, pear etc); bitterness; spice.

Main defects: rancidity, oxidation, mustiness, sludgy/fustiness, heated/ burnt, metallic, winey (wine or vinegar aftertaste).