New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

If you love the fruity-zingy style of Sauvignon Blanc there are still many great, wallet-friendly buys to be found, from Marlborough and beyond

New Zealand wines – particularly Sauvignon Blanc – suffered severe shortages in the 2021 vintage, so it was gratifying to see such a large number entered for this two-day tasting. In our discussions during and following it, we three judges considered regional and vintage differences as well as the range of Sauvignon Blanc styles, notably considering whether there is a lighter, more focused style emerging.

Highlights came from Wairarapa on North Island, which showed real quality and refinement, thanks in part to the free-draining alluvial gravels and clay silts of the terraces which produce small, concentrated berries. On South Island, wines from Waipara showcased a fresh, clean style that impressed. Likewise, it was pleasing to see what Central Otago (especially the Bannockburn sub-region) can produce – it is certainly a region to watch.

Marlborough dominated, with the Wairau sub-region a positive. Notably, we questioned whether Marlborough producers were moving away from punchy, fruity styles (that made the region’s name and which many consumers still love) to a more elegant ‘European’ style. Melanie Brown wondered if Marlborough winemakers were ‘scared to own their classic style’, or whether Mother Nature and financial circumstances had forced them into higher yields, thereby producing lighter-styled wines.

Roger Jones considered whether producers were just responding to consumers’ changing palates. ‘Maybe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc drinkers are moving away from old favourites that had oak and big bold flavours? Obviously plenty still enjoy these flavour-packed styles, however as a global Sauvignon Blanc standard, not just within Marlborough, it is pleasing when refinement, quality and depth combine to give a perfect wine.’

‘There’s been lots of hype about the 2021 vintage,’ said Rebecca Palmer. ‘The gross generalisation is that because yields were down then quality was up, almost as if that’s a given. But the relationship between yield and quality isn’t linear. The growing season was stop-start, affected by frost then cool weather at flowering. And hang-time is crucial to the development of aroma and flavour.’

Brown agreed: ‘I do wonder whether this was a factor in the wines submitted here: far too many I’d describe as “decent enough” but lacking the personality and balance we might have hoped for in order to give more Highly recommendeds and Outstandings.’

Due to Covid restrictions, New Zealand only fully opened its borders on 31 July 2022, and has been partially or totally locked down since March 2020. This resulted in few container ships docking, meaning delays of more than three months to take stock out of the country, not to mention the cost hike.

But it is not all doom and gloom. The 2022 vintage is looking promising, shipping should become easier and NZ Sauvignon Blanc will remain a favourite, despite this temporary mid-life crisis. Until the 2022 vintage makes it on to retailer shelves and wine lists, Decanter readers have some excellent wines to try from this panel tasting, showcasing New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at its very best.