Bisquertt, Crazy Rows Carignan, Maule 2020 (13.5%)
£7.90 Molson Coors Brewery, Revl
Fans of Carignan tend to enjoy its often unbridled character, full of energy and unpredictability. They also know, though, that such wines tend to be made from old vines, since few new vineyards of Carignan have been planted in recent years. This is as true of Chile’s old-established regions as it is of western Languedoc – and it often signifies great value. This dark wine has an ample fruity aroma which succeeds in suggesting wild herbs and scrub, too. On the palate, it is deeper and more concentrated than you might expect from a Value Best in Show. The rugged austerity of the variety, though, is mitigated by Chile’s inherent charm, softness and affability, and the result is a wine which seduces and stimulates in equal measure.
There’s a distinct anthropological slant to this unoaked Carignan, not only in terms of who it pays homage to, but also how it reflects the outlook of its winemaker Andrea Gillet. ‘Our Crazy Rows series highlights the origin of wines made from patrimonial grape varieties in Chile, which are grown thanks to the tradition and effort of thousands of small producers,’ she explains.
‘Before I focused on agronomy and oenology, I considered studying something involving social sciences and people,’ she says. ‘Years later, after university, I had the opportunity to work harvests in Chile and abroad, which immersed me in the world of these growers, their stories and particularities, and led me to understand the origins of wine on a human level. I feel like I’ve come back to that period, closing the circle, making wines with emotion.’
Crazy Rows Carignan comes from vines planted about 70 years ago. ‘They’re unirrigated, head-trained, and grown without any sort of pruning system, which is where the name comes from – it refers to the unorganised rows of vines.
‘We want to honour the rural producers in southern Chile who make wine on a human scale, who maintain their small vineyards year after year, generation after generation.’