Bulas Cruz, Diwine, Douro 2020 (13.2%)

Anyone who has ever tasted young vintage Port will know that few regions in the wine world can deliver fruit with the force, power, energy and exuberance of the Douro – so why not try to capture a little of that in a simple, inexpensive, straightforward but exuberant red table wine? That’s exactly what this wine does. It’s a deep, saturated black-red colour, and is packed with the irresistible tea-leaf, peony and black-fruit character of Douro’s classic varieties. That’s exactly what you find on the palate, too, shouting the wine’s origins at the same time as it delivers fruited perfume and pleasure, juicy acidity and supple, tumbling tannins. This Value Best in Show is, in that sense, a distant Iberian echo of our Best in Show Fleurie: both are perfumed head-turners.

Bulas Cruz has set itself a high bar with the debut vintage of this idiosyncratic Portuguese blend of native varieties such as Touriga Franca,

Tinto Cão and Sousão, to name but three.

Created as an ode to the Douro Valley, it was born in the vineyards of Bulas’ Quinta da Costa de Baixo on the right bank of the river Douro, a spot noted for grape production as long ago as the mid-13th century and whose more recent landowners include one of the valley’s historic Port-producing families.

‘Our master oenologist Rosário Carvalhais studied at university in the nearby town of Vila Real, and her winemaking process is based on small batches,’ explains José Bulas, who was bequeathed the property by his winemaker father. ‘We define the areas of grape production and isolate the various terroirs, which are later carefully blended – some of the smaller batches only produce around 600 litres.

‘Our vineyards are in very harsh and stressful environments. We work them in a manner that maintains the resilience of the plants in harmony with their surroundings. As a family we understand the importance of preserving and enhancing our patrimony for future generations.’