Mandrarossa, Fiano, Terre Siciliane, Sicily 2021 (12.5%)

£10.50 The Wine Society

Drunk as long ago as the 13th century (by Emperor Frederick II), yet almost extinct by the 1970s, the Campanian variety Fiano’s story prefigures that of the northern Rhône’s Viognier. There’s a similarity in profile too – notably the variety’s captivating scent, which is much in evidence in the irresistably floral aromas of this Value Best in Show from Siciliy. In the mouth, though, Fiano often has an acidic poise and freshness all of its own, combined with haunting flavours of citrus, nougat and grenadine – and more of those fresh aromatic flowers. All of these notes are packed exuberantly into this energetic young wine. Shy it isn’t – but there’s Italian class here too.

Mandrarossa came about following a research project conducted by Cantine Settesoli that spanned more than 20 years and was dedicated to mapping the soils of Sicily, the aim being to match varieties with sites on the island. ‘The goal is to achieve the best expression of each variety, to produce wines able to communicate a different Sicily, one that’s experimental and innovative,’ says Mandrarossa’s oenologist Mimmo De Gregorio.

De Gregorio joined Settesoli in 1994 as a laboratory technician before becoming the department head. Today he works alongside the legendary consultant oenologist Alberto Antonini and similarly lauded terroir expert Pedro Parra; it’s a compelling trio of talent.

‘These vineyards grow on gentle hills situated around Menfi, on the southwest coast of Sicily,’ explains De Gregorio. ‘The microclimate is ideal: intense light, different altitudes and expositions, mild temperatures and sea breezes.

‘Fiano is not an indigenous grape of our territory, and although it is considered a delicate variety, it doesn’t have any issues adapting to the environment. I am aiming to characterise and maximise its expression and optimise the connection between the variety and the terroir.’