Decanter

Northern & Eastern Europe

(13.2%)

-

Czech Republic GOLD

Sparkling white 95 Chateau Bzenec, Ryzlink Rýnský Brut, Slovácká, Moravia 2017 (12.5%)

A beautifull­y complex, layered wine. The fine mousse opens to present a very minerally, citrussy palate with a green apple core and a good, luscious acidity. Showing lovely length and character.

GOLD White 95 Obelisk, Pálava, Mikulovská, Moravia 2020

Exceptiona­lly elegant Pálava, with plenty of ripe citrus and quince, body and flavour. Fresh despite the residual sugar, with a finely delineated structure; an outstandin­g achievemen­t for this quirky grape variety.

GOLD Red 95 B\V Vinařství, Reserva Pinot Noir, Slovácká, Moravia 2015 (13%)

Intensely floral nose, ripe fruits and some underlying spicy characters. A nice mouthfeel, well structured, with good acidity and fine use of oak.

Hungary GOLD

Sparkling white 96 Kreinbache­r, Prestige Brut NV (12%)

£26.50 Best of Hungary

A complex and developed aroma, leading with rich toasty biscuits and nuts, then opening into fresh, ripe lemons. The well-structured palate shows vibrancy and offers fresh apple and quince, juicy lemon acidity and a pleasant mousse.

95 Kreinbache­r, Classic Brut NV (12%)

£24.50 Best of Hungary

A classic style, very clean white fruit profile and good autolytic depth. Brioche and lees characters open onto dried apples and then to some evolved mushroomy notes, yet there is lovely freshness on the palate and a vibrant mousse.

GOLD Red 96 Thummerer, Vili Papa Cuvée Superior, Eger 2018 (15.5%)

£33-£35 Novel Wines, Sleepy Pepper A focused wine with precise, intensely floral characters, tobacco and oak highlights. Luscious palate, bountiful fruit, restrained tannins and great length. A lovely texture reveals ripeness yet freshness.

GOLD

Sweet white 96 Mad, Nyulászó Grand Cru Aszú, Tokaj 2017 (9%)

£425/50cl Alliance Wine Silky-smooth texture and a gorgeously elegant acidity structure. Complex flavours of maple, crème caramel, passion fruit, papaya, pineapple and quince. Soft and gentle, with a rounded and elegant finish, notes of burnt sugar. Exquisite.

Very clean and balanced, this is a fine example, with apricot preserve, honey, saffron and white tea. A core of raisin juice, lots of phenolic interest and an unbelievab­le amount of sugar. A glass of sunshine.

95 Disznókő, Hattyús, Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2017 (12.5%)

Superb harmony of spice, acidity, fruit, body, length and complexity. From toffee and honey to Mediterran­ean herbs and lavender... physalis and starfruit... dried pineapple, mango... an endless palette of flavours. Gorgeous.

95 Grand Tokaj, Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2014 (10.1%)

Classic, laser-precise acidity balances the intense sweetness. The button mushroom botrytis nose develops into apricot preserve, saffron, orange zest and jasmine tea. An almost steely vibrancy and intensity. Has decades to go.

95 Gróf Degenfeld, Selection Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2017 (10.5%)

This is a beautifull­y plush and complex wine with lots of purity. The hugely sweet palate is balanced by a fine acidity and lemony fresh finish, with a spiced honey character that runs along the endless length.

95 Royal Tokaji, By Appointmen­t Only Furmint POA Fordítás, Tokaj 2016 (11.5%)

POA £ Bibendum Wine

Creamy honey, mint and bay leaf aromas lead to very ripe stone fruits on the palate. Great length and smooth roundness, nice touches of fresh herbs, caramel, quince and maple syrup on the finish.

Moldova

GOLD White 95 Purcari, Viorica de Purcari, Stefan Voda 2021 (12.9%)

£15.99 Transylvan­ia Wine

Opens with a soft floral aroma that includes acacia and rose petals, then apple, citrus and some tropical notes with a vibrant freshness and long, structured finish.

GOLD Red 95 Château Vartely, Individo Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Valul Lui Traian 2017 (14.5%)

A Rioja-style blend with good character. Full-bodied with tertiary, mature notes of mushroom and leather joining the cassis fruits and graphite notes. The oak is handled well. Mature and drinking well now.

95 Fautor Winery, Aurore Rară Neagră, Valul Lui Traian 2018

(14%)

Pretty, floral aromas with blackberry fruit interspers­ed with supple bilberry. A core of beautiful fruit is super-balanced and shows several layers of fruit. Soft tannins and a juicy lingering finish.

95 Purcari, Academia Rară Neagră, Stefan Voda 2019 (12.8%)

£49.95 Transylvan­ia Wine

Young and expressive with smart use of oak that adds complexity. Red fruit and berry flavours balanced by some light green edges. The palate shows some grippy tannins and ends long and textured.

‘Hungary remains a bright star, with increasing­ly contempora­ry styles in white and red and, as always, some breathtaki­ng Tokaji Aszú, competing with the best sweet wines in the world’ ------------------------ Wojciech Bońkowski, Northern & Eastern Europe judge

 ?? ?? From left (seated): Northern & Eastern Europe joint Regional Chair Darrel Joseph discusses the wines with judges Wojciech Bońkowski and Elod Adam
From left (seated): Northern & Eastern Europe joint Regional Chair Darrel Joseph discusses the wines with judges Wojciech Bońkowski and Elod Adam
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 ?? ?? Dimitar Nikolov judged in the Balkans and Northern & Eastern Europe categories
Dimitar Nikolov judged in the Balkans and Northern & Eastern Europe categories
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