Port & Madeira GOLD White
(14.5%) 96 Casa Ermelinda Freitas, Superior, Moscatel de Setúbal 2009 (18%) GOLD White
Port GOLD
Fortified
96 Bulas Cruz, 30 Year Old White Port (20%)
Debonair dusty, woody and cask-derived aromas. Bold, confident, rich, intense and complex, lovely texture, multiple layers of chocolate, coffee, honey and orange. Big orange marmalade finish.
96 MM Heritage Family, Quinta da Sabordela, Single Quinta Vintage 2019 (19.5%)
Sweetly perfumed, ripe and jammy, bitter chocolate and Black Forest gateau. High tannins, searing acidity provide structure and potential for evolution. Complex, combining power with elegance.
96 Quinta do Cume, Vintage 2019 (19.5%)
POA $ Columbus Wine and Spirits Youthful baked plum, coffee bean and spice. Nice structure, fruit showing well alongside exuberant acidity and tannins. Big, ripe, opulent, pretty, plummy fruit, explosive finish. Its future is gold-plated.
95 Kopke, 20 Year Old White Port (20%)
£39.95/37.5cl Vintage Wine & Port Elegant, light-footed, subtle layers, more nuanced than many of its peers; a very interesting contrast. The fruit is well defined, joining caramel, toffee and white chocolate for a poised mouthful. Delicious.
95 Quinta do Tedo, 10 Year Old Tawny (20%)
Intense, classic, clover honey and spice aromas. Elegant, concentrated, complex, delicate milk chocolate fruit. Excellent acidity to balance richness. Cacao, toffee, chocolate. Perfect for a summer’s evening.
95 Sandeman, 20 Year Old Tawny (20%)
£34.99-£42.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Blanco & Gomez, John Hattersley,
Hay Wines, Lea & Sandeman, Slurp,
Vin Neuf, Vino Gusto, Waitrose Seductive milk chocolate, rum raisin ice cream. Silky, extremely refined. Perfect balance of sweetness and alcohol. Delightful interpretation of the possibilities of this age category.
95 Sandeman, 30 Year Old Tawny (20%)
£65-£78.95 Alexander Hadleigh, John Hattersley, Philglas & Swiggot, Q Wines, Vin Neuf
Such pleasure and indulgence. Cornucopia of layers, gloriously soft and nutty; sublime delicacy and refinement, with delicious drying, savoury-nutty finish, and bright acidity. Sublime. On its way to perfection.
95 Sandeman, Quinta do Seixo 2019 (19.5%)
£75-£79.95 Harvey Nichols,
Vintage Port Shop
A distinguished and dense, concentrated beauty, showing expressive blueberry and bramble, flirtatious violet and rose, fresh appeal. Ripe, fine, dark chocolate tannins; pure, delicious fruit. Really beautiful.
95 Sogevinus, Barros, 20 Year Old Tawny (20%)
£40-£45.18 Corking Wines, Hic, Vinoramica, Wine Poole
Warm, savoury nose; rich, revealing a dry core. Glorious, mellifluous, delicious, bursting with fruit cake. Superb finish, concentrated spice and whisky marmalade. A class act from every perspective.
95 Symington, The Society’s Exhibition Crusted Bottled 2013 (20%)
£17 The Wine Society
Elegant violet and rose, generous acidity, ripeness and plenty of unobtrusive tannins. Ripe fruit, added interest and depth from engaging spice and chocolate. Lingering, chewy black-cherry finish.
Madeira GOLD
Fortified 96 Blandy’s, 20 Year Old Malmsey (20%)
£55.17-£60/50cl Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, The Wine Society, VinQuinn
Beguiling dried figs, roast chestnuts and jalapeño. Tangy caramel, rich fruit cake, rancio bursts. Extreme complexity, beautifully balanced, rich and luxurious mouthfeel. Beautiful finish, jam-packed with interest.
95 Blandy’s, 10 Year Old Bual (19%)
£17.99-£21.99/50cl Widely available Caramel, fudge and beef tea aromas, fruit cake, marmalade, baked apple. Round, tangy and pure, wonderfully integrated, intense and balanced. Fresh streak of acidity on the finish. Fantastic expression.
95 Henriques & Henriques, 15 Year Old Boal (20%)
£26-£30/50cl Widely available
Heady leather and wood polish aromatics. Full and sumptuous palate; wonderful age-derived tangy richness and lively notes of dark treacle, chocolate and leather, with high acidity that lends liveliness. Complex, and persistent on the finish.
95 Henriques & Henriques, 15 Year Old Verdelho (19%)
£21-£28.50/50cl Widely available Muscovado sugar, hazelnut aromas, with touches of leather and bursts of lemon peel on the palate. Fruit shines through; apple acidity and sweetness perfectly aligned. A stunning example; a true classic.
95 Henriques & Henriques, Single Harvest Verdelho 2007 (20%)
£40 The Wine Society
Camomile and cucumber underlying caramel and sultana. Elegance and incredible balance, beautiful freshness; extremely persistent spicy finish. Wonderfully complex, at a lovely stage of development.
Portugal GOLD
Sparkling white 95 Caves Transmontanas, Vértice Millésime Brut, Douro 2014 (12%)
£32 Amathus Drinks
Beguiling; crisp and complex with camomile, brioche, dried honey, toast, stone fruits and marzipan. Creamy texture and a vivid persistent mousse, with a long, nutty finish.
96 Deu-la-Deu, Alvarinho, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde 2021 (13%)
Summer in a glass, characterful classic honeysuckle, tropical fruit, citrus, nectarine, peach and fennel aromas. Zesty with a refreshing saline note, energy and limey acidity. Compelling.
95 Casa de Santar, Branco de Curtimenta, Dão 2019 (12.5%)
You’d be hard-pressed to find a better (Encruzado) varietal example. Apple, quince and smoky oak scents. Well-defined, intense and powerful, vibrant
notes of spice, lanolin, peach and dried herbs.
95 Herdade da Calada, Baron de B Reserva, Alentejo 2019
(14.5%) Sublime dried herbs, flowers, waxy lemon. Elegant, creamy texture that opens up to ripe orange, quince, pear, ginger, nutmeg, vanilla, sweet spice, grapefruit. Neatly composed.
95 Soalheiro, Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho, Monção and Melgaço, Vinho Verde 2020 (13%)
£18.95-£26 Cheers, Drinkmonger, JN Wine, NY Wines, The Good Wine Shop, The Wine Society, The Wright Wine Co, Whitebridge Wines
Benchmark, delicious Alvarinho that opens up in the glass. Complexity, fruit intensity and compelling length: nectarine into ripe peach, yellow apple, tangy acidity and herbs, along with mineral touches on a zesty, gently saline finish.
GOLD Red 95 Herdade do Peso, Reserva, Alentejo 2018
£24.30-£29.95 Alexander Hadleigh, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm
A treasure trove of black fruits, bay leaves and black olives on the bouquet; a concentrated palate laced with cedary tannins. Spot on, with ticks in every box, including a lingering finish. In fine drinking shape, but won’t fall over in a hurry.
95 Quinta da Pedra Escrita, Douro 2019 (14.5%)
Vanilla bean, Earl Grey tea, sour cherry, graphite and blackberry nose. Fresh acidity with sinewy tannins and lots of succulent black fruits with a slight minty edge. Lovely mouthfeel and altogether compelling, with an impressively long, spicy finish.
GOLD Fortified
Mint, allspice and toffee nose and palate, hints of almond, peach tea, orange and grapefruit pith. Lovely freshness and purity, despite the sweetness and age. Expertly shaped with a nutty, figgy finish.
96 Vallegre, Vista Alegre Colheita, Moscatel do Douro 1994 (20%)
POA £ Lanchester Wines
Refined dried apricot, roast chestnut, toffee and tobacco leaf bouquet. A complex, bright cornucopia of butterscotch, wheat, nutmeg, biscuity brandy and milk chocolate orange, yet fresh with an endless salted nut finish. A beauty.
95 JM Fonseca, Alambre, Moscatel de Setúbal 2018 (17%)
Expressive bouquet of waxy apricot, orange, barley sugar, Turkish delight, rose petal, caramel and baked apple. Delivers intense flavours all the way as it bursts through a toasted almond finish.
Provence 96 Château Calissanne, Clos Victoire, Coteaux d’Aixen-Provence 2021 (13.5%)
Lovely aromas of delicate citrus, honey, hay and herbs. Terrific freshness and depth, with grapefruit, ripe lemon, thyme, fennel and olive oil notes. Multi-layered with great length and elegance.
95 Château les Valentines, Le Grand Huit, Côtes de Provence La Londe 2020 (13.5%)
Perfumed lemon oil, saffron, honeysuckle, tropical, pink peppercorn aromas. Lemon and olive oil, spiced quince, blood orange curd. Succulent fruit, integrated oak and depth.
GOLD Rosé 96 Château de SaintMartin, Eternelle Favorite, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2021 (12.5%)
POA £ Vagabond
Wonderfully expressive aromas of wild flowers and pink citrus. Classically styled palate with creamy strawberry and cherry fruit, as well as zingy pink grapefruit flavours, a silky texture and long, mineral, saline finish. Very good indeed.
96 Mirabeau, Etoile, Côtes de Provence 2021 (12.5%)
£17 Sainsbury’s
Inviting aromas of red berry fruit, pink grapefruit and melon. Citrus, rhubarb, redcurrant and grapefruit pith flavours, real weight and a creamy, crisp finish. Beautifully textured wine. Terrific effort for the vintage.
95 Château d’Esclans, Les Clans, Côtes de Provence 2020 (14%)
£49-£59.99 Noble Green,
The Wine Reserve, WoodWinters Nutty aromas with rosewater and vanilla. Sumptuously rich, with depth of peach, redcurrant and plum fruit, with oatmealtextured oak, bread dough, sweet spices and a lovely citrus lick on the finish. Elegant.
95 Château Romanin, Grand Vin Rosé, Les Baux-de-Provence 2021 (13.5%)
£18.50 Millésima, The Wine Society Fresh, bright nose, red berries, honeysuckle and rose. Rounded and creamy, with plenty of freshness. Orange peel, dried flowers, a lick of grapefruit pith. Silky with a citrus-fresh finish.
GOLD Red 96 Château Sainte Roseline, Lampe de Meduse, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2017 (15%)
£24.99 Ann et Vin, The Drink Shop, Wine Direct
Pronounced mulberry, violet and blackberry aromas. Plush texture with concentrated fruits, notes of pepper and kirsch, fine tannins and bright acidity. Just getting going at five years old.
96 Domaine Richeaume, Columelle, Méditerranée 2019 (13.5%)
£30 Yapp Bros
Heady aromas of rose petal, peppery violet spice, herbs and black fruits. Fresh and juicy on the palate; baked plum, black pepper spice, very ripe and pronounced tannins. Drink now or will bring future rewards.
96 Les Béates, Terra d’Or, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2016 (14.5%)
Bold, warm oak, bramble, black fruit. Ripe, rich blackberry, liquorice and cinnamon with a malty edge. Fine, firm tannins and good freshness create an intense and evocative wine.
95 Baulieu, Rouge, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2018 (14%)
£20 Liberty Wines
Rich blackcurrant and dark cherry nose, hints of balsamic.
The palate adds herbs, spices, tapenade, cocoa and oak. Multilayered complexity, freshness and length; will reward those who are patient.
95 Château de Crémat, Rouge, Bellet 2016 (15%)
£28 Montrachet Fine Wine
Spiced black plum, blackberry fruit and earthy tobacco nose. Concentrated dark fruits and a chocolatey texture balanced by lovely acidity. Complex and very involving. A serious wine.
95 Château Henri Bonnaud, Quintessence, Palette 2018 (14.5%)
Inviting nose of raspberry, black cherry, hedgerow and chocolate, nice oak spice. Herbal notes cut through the sweet ripe, concentrated fruit palate. Warm, dry spices and herbs on the finish.
95 Château Romanin, Grand Vin Rouge, Les Baux-de-Provence 2017 (13.5%)
Intense aromas of oaky, spicy fruit, liquorice and plum. Plush and rich palate with exuberant black fruits, Christmas spices, raisin, prune, cedar and sweet tobacco. Elegant and long. Drink or, ideally, keep.
GOLD White 96 Domaine des Anges, Archange, Ventoux 2020 (13.5%)
POA £ Direct Wine Shipments, Imperial Wine Co
POA $ DHI Selections
Exquisitely vivid floral, lemon peel, honey, tangy lime fruit and herbal bouquet. Gently toasty/saline palate, powerful and immaculately balanced. A compelling wine with a long, fresh, mineral finish.
96 Domaine du Chêne, Condrieu 2020 (14%)
Ripe, pure, tangy, expressive and deeply fruited. Great depth, white peach and citrus. Intense, creamy, spiced; well-integrated oak and alcohol. Neat and very true, familiar varietal features all through. Impeccable.
95 Cave de Tain, Nobles Rives Blanc, Hermitage 2020 (14.5%)
£60 Boutinot
Refined, fresh and intense; debonair floral, citrus, white peach aromatics. Classic weight and breadth of a high-quality Hermitage. Intense, complex and saline, nuanced use of oak.
95 Roland Grangier, Les Terrasses Condrieu 2020 (14%)
£37 Amathus Drinks
Expressive, lemon verbena, ripe peach, orange blossom. Gentle acidity, well-integrated oak. Fresh and deftly put together; yoghurt, peach, flowers. Poise, length and finesse.
GOLD Red 96 Cave de Cairanne, Camille Cayran la Grande Réserve, Cairanne 2020 (14.5%)
Soft, ripe Black Forest compote nose; nice concentration of fruit on the palate, good weight, really well balanced in terms of fruit, acidity and tannin; supple and silky. Lots of juicy, succulent blackberry fruit flavours, nice complexity coming through. Dangerously drinkable.
96 Domaine Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 (15.5%)
POA £ Davy’s
Vim and vigour in spades here, starting with a floral, red fruit, liquorice and blueberry nose. Rounded, with ripe, suave tannins. The alcohol is warming and inviting; balanced acidity makes for a charming style.
96 Louis Bernard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020
(15%)
$50 Boisset Collection
Powerfully lifted black pepper, rose petal, red cherry, forest floor, liquorice, baking spice and herbal aromatics. Really complex, with polished soft fruits and oak spice on the palate. Watch this space.
96 Terroir Daronton, Gigondas 2020 (15%)
Full, rich and luxurious, with ripe red berries and rich, meaty fruit; grainy and gritty tannins. Youthful but harmonious. A lovely acid line brings precision and pep. Very appealing.
96 Verzier, Madone, St-Joseph 2019 (13.5%)
POA £ Christopher Piper
POA $ Beaune Imports,
Eagle Eye Imports
Wonderfully spicy fragrance with juniper, rosemary, raspberry and almond, plenty of black olive tapenade appeal. Fresh, creamy and refined.
Complex, neat and focused, a wine of immense charm.
95 Bonpas, Grand Prieur, Gigondas 2020 (14%)
Measured, filigree, fresh and delightful. Peppery, liquorice, bay leaf, black olive aromatics. Juicy, dark fruits, integrated oak, lovely weight and sweet spice/dried floral notes. Everything in place. The acidity is vital and length exceptional.
95 Château Pesquié, Artemia, Ventoux 2020 (14%)
£37 Flint Wines
Beautifully clean and pure bouquet. Bottle-developed dried thyme, rosemary, red/black fruit; concentrated but not excessive, very smooth texture. Serious class, elegance. Ready to drink.
95 Courtois by Domaine Jaume, La Grange, Vinsobres 2019 (14%)
POA $ Fruit of the Vine Barrique-derived spice greets the nose: cinnamon and nutmeg. Superb, full-bodied, fresh, spicy-savoury. Grippy with grainy, textural tannins, liquorice, dark fruit, tar and herbs. In super shape.
95 Delas, Domaine des Grands Chemins, CrozesHermitage 2019
(14%)
POA £ Maisons Marques et Domaines
POA $ Maisons Marques & Domaines
Very powerful, with cola, clove oak, spicy aromas. An imposing palate, intense, rich but fresh, crammed with blackberry and liquorice. A mantle of sweet oak complements. Creamy, layered and very persistent.
95 Domaine Brusset,
Les Hauts de Montmirail, Gigondas 2020 (14.5%)
POA £ Enotria&Coe
$49.99 Total Wine & More
Dark plum, brambly fruit, very ripe. Full, concentrated, with menthol, camphor and ripe, pliable, rounded tannins. Graceful arc of blue and black fruit. Freshness carries without excess. A ‘wow’ wine.
95 Famille Arnaud, Quart du Roi, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun 2019 (14.5%)
£12.50 The Wine Society
Gummy fruit, bay leaf, herbal, balsamic and black olive aromatics. Chunky palate, a rich phalanx of herby fruit, powerful structural attributes. Boozy but fun. Appealingly complex and rounded.
95 Famille Ravoire, Pierre de Fontval, Cairanne 2020 (14%)
Lovely ripe red fruit on bouquet and palate; spice, coffee bean, vanilla, leather. Smooth, expansive and mouthfilling. Tannins are supple, polished; good concentration and freshness, peppery finish.
95 François-Xavier Nicolas, Entre Restanques et Garrigues, Cairanne 2020 (15%)
Ripe but not overripe red cherry bouquet. Powerful, juicy and structured, with well-mannered yet evident, robust tannins. Bold, concentrated, intense, rich and imposing. Classic Grenache-led Cairanne. Oozes confidence and class.
95 Frédéric Arnaud, Château Courac, Côtes du Rhône 2020 (14.5%)
£9.50 The Wine Society
Gorgeous, bright with black olive and thyme oil aromas.
Pure, concentrated, bright, clean and juicy; integrated, well-mannered tannins. Fresh, well balanced, in splendid shape, and exceptional value.
95 Frédéric Arnaud, Château Courac, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun 2020 (14.5%)
£11 The Wine Society
Interesting herbal nose, black olive, thyme and chewy, rich tobacco spice. Richly fruited, precise, broad and harmonious; generous and bright, snappy acidity; robust, cleansing tannins. Exceptional value.
95 Frédéric Arnaud, La Roselière, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun 2020 (14.5%)
Explosive nose, bright, vibrant, with savoury black olive, thyme, tea leaf and ripe black fruit. Ripeness and power under control. Opulent, full-bodied, generous; warming alcohol. Seamless and irresistible.
‘The southern Rhone’s white wines remain under the radar but increasingly offer excellent value for money’ --------------------------- Jason Millar, Rhône judge
95 Gabriel Meffre, St-Barthélémy, Vacqueyras 2020 (15%)
Stellar. Liquorice, smoke, floral and red cherry aromas. Savoury but ripe palate, with beautifully integrated oak. Olive tapenade, blackberry, dark chocolate and fig. Pitch-perfect now but plenty of life ahead.
95 Galuval, La Montagne, Cairanne 2019
(15.5%) £25.90 The Bottle Club Spicy/herbal, black olive, bay leaf and leather aromas. Lush but not heavy, crammed with spice, blackberry, liquorice. Ample and imposing; finegrained tannins add structure; satiny texture and gravitas.
95 Galuval, La Montagne, Cairanne 2020 (15.5%)
Expressive black fruit, blackberry, herbal, damson nose, a twist of liquorice. Complexity and definition, sculpted tannins, a piercing beam of acidity. No hard edges, lovely sunshine flavours.
95 Maison Bouachon, Duc de Montfort, Gigondas 2020 (14.5%)
Soft spice and dark fruit aromatics: bold, juicy berries, dark plums, figs and damsons.
Balanced tannins, rich and bold fruit with a satin texture. Fresh and peppery, herbal and vibrant.
95 Vidal-Fleury, CrozesHermitage 2020 (13%)
£23.95-£25 Mr Wheeler, The Oxford Wine Co, Wine Utopia
Intense, focused, expressing its origins with a freshly cracked black pepper nose. No excess extraction, weight or oak. Damson and liquorice, sculpted tannins, good freshness with presence and character.
95 Vidal-Fleury, Vacqueyras 2020 (14.5%)
£28.50 Great Grog, Wadebridge Wines Interesting, already showing some complexity, elegant damson, blackberry and juniper nose. Bright red and dark fruits; juicy, bold, meaty, spicy, slightly oaky. Elegant finish. In the groove with plenty to come.
95 Vignobles & Compagnie, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 (15%)
Dense raisin, oak and bramble fruit compote. Good sense of purity, blackberry and black cherry fruit. Smooth with a good volume of filigree tannin in the background. Long, balanced, complete and unforced.
Sherry
£60-£64/50cl Amathus Drinks, Frazier’s, The Whisky Exchange
Rich, intense, with an amazing baroque oxidative complexity. Drink in short sips, meditatively: its extremely well-integrated alcohol elevates the roasted walnuts and bitter orange peel.
96 Harveys, VORS 30 Years Pedro Ximénez (16%)
£50-£51/50cl Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop,
The Whisky Exchange
Intriguing and exceptionally concentrated, with burnt caramel and dried fig aromatics. An oily, thick, blockbuster style with mocha, spicy, meaty, nutty and savoury flavours, crème brulée, all through into a protracted aftertaste.
96 Harveys, VORS 30 Years Very Old Amontillado (19%)
£49-£51/50cl Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange
SHERRY WON
1 Best in show (see p31)
6 Platinum (see p61)
For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver
For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze
Heady popcorn kernel, leather, chocolate and caramel aromas with bursts of cinnamon. A rich, velvety texture with flavours of salted lemon and hazelnut, a tangy freshness and apple pip bitterness. Great balance, complex finish. Spot-on.
96 Lustau, Almacenista Cayetano del Pino y Cía, Palo Cortado (21%)
£26-£32/50cl Bancroft, Berry Bros & Rudd, Ellis Wines, Noble Green,
The Old Bridge Wine Shop
Stunning wood polish, apple, butterscotch, fudge and praline bouquet. Super-concentrated, very smooth, plenty of nutty, orange peel and grapefruit pith character. Extremely complex and elegant, with spices and dates on the protracted finish.
96 Osborne, Capuchino VORS Palo Cortado (20%)
£54-£60/50cl José Pizarro,
The Drink Shop
Caramel, mocha and lemon blossom into toast, nuts and the lightest touch of salt. This is both rich and savoury, the finish especially remarkable, and the crucial freshness to cleanse the pulsating aftertaste.
96 Osborne, Solera P∆P Medium (22%)
£118/50cl Jose Pizarro
Smoky bouquet. Dense, rich and impactful in the mouth; almond, liquorice, salted nuts, wild
honey, iodine and strikingly well-handled sweetness. Authoritative, (almost) never-ending finish, slightly salty aftertaste. Fantastic.
95 González Byass,
Tio Pepe Cuatro Palmas Amontillado (21.5%)
£72.95-£80/50cl Amathus Drinks, Master of Malt, Tanners
This gem is old and refined, almost decadent, but still subtle. Crème brûlée, treacle, wood polish, honey and toffee apple leap out of the glass. An explosion of Churrigueresque complexity, vibrant, rich, persistent. And joyfully old...
95 Harveys, Oloroso (19.5%)
£13.50/50cl Whyte & Mackay
The essence of a sublime aged wine. Dry, expressive, refined, with a silky texture, it’s oloroso for the night, a glass of wine for reflection: the conduit between fine wine and top whiskey. An intensely savoury finish lends great complexity. Remarkable.
95 Lustau, Almacenista Antonio Caballero y Sobrinos, Amontillado del Castillo (21.5%)
£34.99/50cl Bancroft, Berry Bros & Rudd, Noble Green
An amazing tertiary, woody bouquet makes you take notice. It’s rich, malty, meaty and nutty with amazing depth, iodine intensity, smooth texture and a well-judged nip of sweetness. Elegant and long, just beautiful.
South Africa GOLD
Sparkling white 95 Le Lude, Reserve Brut, Western Cape 2013 (12%)
£32.50 Hard to Find Wines
Complex aromas of brioche, bruised apple, stone fruit, a slight spearmint lift. Fresh, with delicate biscuit, floral and citrus flavours. Very elegant, with a creamy mousse and a persistent finish.
GOLD White 96 Delaire Graff, Reserve Chardonnay, Banghoek, Stellenbosch 2020 (14.3%)
£21.84 Armit
Rich, creamy macadamia and citrus marmalade with salty crackers and smoked lime. Bright, taut and crisp; tangy marmalade, sweet lemon and stone fruit, breadth and richness. Appetising intensity.
96 Doolhof, Môrestond Chardonnay, Limietberg, Wellington 2018 (12.5%)
£39.99 London City Bond Beautifully bright and youthful at four years old. A smoky nose adds complexity to the lime and yuzu citrus aromas. The palate offers a crisp, somewhat pithy, almost-grapefruit tang. Vibrant and fresh but rich and layered.
96 Edgebaston, David Finlayson Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2021 (13.5%)
£18.40 London Wine Shippers,
Pull The Cork
A lily of the valley perfume opens to ripe cantaloupe melon, lemon zest, tangerine and dried papaya. Gentle fruit character, easy-drinking, with attractive white peach, yellow cherry and camomile.
95 Aaldering Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch 2021 (13%) SOUTH AFRICA WON
2 Best in show (see p31)
5 Platinum (see p61)
For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver
For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze
Apple and cantaloupe melon, a roasted pepper note and lovely, savoury hints of hay. A vibrant, taut vivacity to the palate, with grapefruit, riper stone fruit and a lick of salinity.
95 Beau Constantia, Pierre, Constantia, Cape Town 2021 (13.5%)
Pungent tropical fruit aromas with marked cream and vanilla. Smoky gooseberry with vanilla custard, elderflower, accents of musk and a flinty, saline finish. Bordelais-style, with lovely complexity and concentration.
95 Brookdale, Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Paarl 2020 (13.5%)
£29.99 Museum Wines
Bright and youthful; intensely ripe tropical fruit nose and a slight reductive dimension. Flavours of baked apples, stone fruits, citrus blossom, vanilla and a delicious flinty-mineral expression. Mouthwatering.
95 Chamonix Estate, Old Vine Steen, Franschoek 2021 (13.5%)
£35 ABS Wine Agencies
Power and concentration. Wet wool and river bed minerals join quince and apricot, with rich honeyed toast. Interesting note of flinty reduction on a vibrant and intense palate, refreshing lime peel bitterness.
‘In Sherry, the Fino En Rama class, although small, was of high quality – a personal highlight was the PX’ --------------------------- Cathy van Zyl, Sherry judge
95 Constantia Uitsig, Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, Cape Town 2021
(13.5%)
Restrained, creamy and smoky with pear drop character and a light grassiness behind it. Lemon vibrancy tempered with creamier nuances. Finishes with a lovely phenolic grip and more lemony pear.
95 Delaire Graff, White Reserve, Western Cape 2019 (14.5%)
$50 Cape Ardor
Attractive, herbaceous aromas of asparagus, greengage and lemon. Beautifully balanced, a lovely saline character, blackcurrant leaf freshness and some toastiness on the finish. Elegant and moreish.
95 Glenwood, Grand Duc Chardonnay, Franschoek 2020 (14%)
£44 Rakq
White flowers, notes of lemon meringue pie then hazelnut, dried orange peel and thatch. The oaky, vanilla-caramel entry is tempered by fresh acidity; apple pie, toasted coconut and fresh custard.
95 Kleine Zalze, Project Z Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2019 (12.5%)
£46.30 Hatch Mansfield
Shy, delicate aromas of spring blossoms, sea breeze, salted lemons and fresh yellow apples. Delicate and quite reserved palate, with a saline minerality and pithy texture wrapping white peach and lime flavours.
95 KWV, The Mentors Grenache Blanc, Coastal Region 2020 (13.5%)
‘The Chardonnays were just plain showing off. Serious quality winemaking, but with that extra something special that makes them distinctly South African’ --------------------------- Malu Lambert, South Africa judge
£19-£20 Cape Wine, Cellar Door Wines, North South Wines
Waxy and oily, with Rieslinglike notes of kerosene, wool, apricot and crushed stones. Lighter citrus and apple blossom notes on the palate.
Biscuity oak and vanilla, stone fruit and a light lemony zip.
95 Neil Ellis, Whitehall Chardonnay, Elgin 2020 (13%)
£25-£27 Cellar Door Wines,
House of Townend, Street Wines Opulent nose with caramelised apples and crème brûlée. Tangy with massive concentration, Granny Smith apples, lemon curd and riverbed pebbles, piercing acidity. Long, saline mineral finish. Wow.
95 Old Road Wine Co, Grand-Mère Semillon, Franschoek 2020 (13%)
£30 DGB Europe, SugarBird, Winoship Lime zest, kiwi fruit and lemongrass, dried-flower perfumes and a touch of waxy lemon peel. Mineral-crisp elegance opens into a developed lanolin richness. Quite demure now, but will age well.
95 Oldenburg Vineyards, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2021 (13.5%)
£18.95 Jeroboams, Winoship
Nutty, orange, upfront mineral aromas lead into a rich, creamy, oaky and cashew/oatmeal palate that shows a zippy-fresh citrus and fennel lift. Fresh and mouthwatering. Great intensity.
95 Rustenberg, Five Soldiers Chardonnay, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2020 (13.5%)
£28-£34.99 Frontier Fine Wines, Handford, Harrogate Wines, Lea & Sandeman, Martinez Wines, Simply Wines Direct, Ten Acre, The Drink Shop, Vinvm, Waitrose, Wine Direct
White pepper, oatmeal, marmalade, preserved lemon, touch of smoke. Taut with rich orange-tangerine flavours and lovely biscuity vanilla oak. Genteel, long and seamless.
95 Stark-Condé, Field Blend, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch 2021 (13%)
Elegant; chalky freshness and an Old World-like dry, delicate complexity. White fruit and white flower aromas, savoury thatch and spice. Tangy, bright, crunchy palate, lemon, white pears and a savoury delicacy.
95 Uva Mira, The Single Tree Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2019 (13%)
POA £ Museum Wines
Gentle honey and oatmeal with orange blossom, cardamom
spice, camomile and biscuit notes. Restrained flavours of lemon and lime blossom, creamy oak and a peacock-tail finish. Understated and fine.
GOLD Red 96 Cederberg, Five Generations Cabernet Sauvignon, Cederberg 2019 (13.5%)
£55.49 Bancroft
Deep, brooding black fruits, Italian herbs, cigar box oak. Pure red and black fruit opens into a breeze of fynbos perfume followed by a deliciously tangy cherry-pip quality.
96 Franschhoek Cellar, The Last Elephant, Stellenbosch 2019 (14%)
£35-£38 Bon Coeur, Fine Wines Direct, Saxtys, Slurp, The General Wine Co, Tolchards
Alluring perfume over ripe fruitcake, black cherry coulis, cherry tobacco, clove, bay leaf and cocoa aromas. A cohesive and refined palate that echoes the nose, succulent with ripe fruit, layered and nuanced, with inky depth and a long tail.
96 Stark-Condé, Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch 2019
(14%) Youthful vibrancy and purity, with fresh bay, spearmint and tea leaf herbs over wild forest berries, crème de cassis, black cherries and plums. A seductive quality on the palate; good tension with fine tannins and a deliciously savoury undertone.
95 Babylonstoren, Nebukadnesar, SimonsbergPaarl 2019 (14.5%)
£28.75-£32.99 Cape Wine, Jaded Palates, Novel Wines, The Somerset Wine Co, Vinotopia, Wanderlust Wine Brooding, dark blackcurrant, cherries, liquorice, olive, cocoa, cedarwood and mint. Opulent and very extracted, yet well balanced with generosity and fleshiness. Concentrated fruit wrapped in polished tannins; balanced and savoury finish.
95 Babylonstoren, Shiraz, Simonsberg-Paarl 2019 (14.5%)
£17.25-£19.95 Banstead Vintners, Cape Wine, Frontier Fine Wines, Jaded Palates, Novel Wines, Rakq, The Somerset Wine Co, Vinotopia Dark, a hint of prune, cooked blackberries with a lick of freshly cracked black pepper and cocoa behind rosemary, pecan nuts and a tang of olive brine. Cohesive and structured with big tannins.
95 Cederberg, Shiraz, Cederberg 2019 (14.5%)
£25 Bancroft
Beautifully charismatic, with strong bramble aromas and accents of bonbon, cooked plum, coffee and a peppery leafiness. Full-bodied with a lovely floral top note, finishing long with vibrant acidity. £35 K&L
Cacao nib, smoke, baked cherry pie and coffee all mingle on a youthful and well-structured palate. A rewarding red with Christmas pudding richness, tangy cranberry and savoury, spicy highlights.
95 Groot Constantia, Gouverneurs Reserve, Constantia, Cape Town 2018 (14.2%)
£32.85-£35 Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Hard to Find Wines, Lekker Wines, SA Wines, Strictly Wine, The Drink Shop
Cool, attractive hints of cherry cola, savoury blackcurrant and hints of grilled herbs. Creamy and plush with a fine vein of acids, a deliciously vibrant, fleshy Cape Bordeaux blend. Elegant, sophisticated finish.
‘Syrah/Shiraz grows well in a variety of microclimates in SA – this was demonstrated with a dazzling array of styles, mined along a rich quality seam’ --------------------------- Malu Lambert (right)
95 Jordan, Cobblers Hill, Stellenbosch 2018 (14%)
£31-£35 Alexander Wines, Alteus, Christopher Piper, Hannibal Brown, George Hill, The Oxford Wine Co,
The Wine Reserve
A clean and very polished nose, gamey characters with leafy cassis, damson, leather and tobacco. A complex granite earthiness, subtle accents of potpourri, pencil shaving and cedar. Needs five years-plus.
95 Koelenbosch, Director’s Reserve Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2020 (14.5%)
Rich, opulent; plush spectrum of fruit in a silky delivery. Cherry and raspberry accented by fresh herbs, ground coffee and dark-chocolate raisins. Fig leaf, wet earth and vegetable broth on a savoury finish.
95 Lothian of Elgin, Pinot Noir, Elgin 2019 (14%)
£19 Oddbins
POA $ USA Wine Imports, Cape Ardor Lovely, lifted ripe and rich fruit flavours of raspberry and strawberry, meaty-steak complexities, warm butter and wet slate. The grippy yet fresh finish holds well-integrated oak with a lingering note of cherries.
95 Nederburg, Private Bin Two Centuries Cabernet Sauvignon, Coastal Region 2018 (14.9%)
Delicious ripe plum compote with star anise edges, then blackberry pastille, graphite, tea, tobacco leaf and a lovely edge of balsamic piquancy.
Elegant, grippy and dry, still very fresh and youthful.
95 Peter Falke, PF Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2019 (14.2%)
£19.99 Wickham Wine
Roasted coffee beans and notes of blackcurrant with a pretty perfume of cherry blossom and almond. Fresh rosemary and sage, developed notes of baked fruits and chocolate. Compact, textured and delightful.
95 Peter Falke, Signature Kailani, Stellenbosch 2018 (14.4%)
£49.99 Wickham Wine
Shy aroma delicately opening to blackberry with a dusting of cinnamon, powdered vanilla, forest floor. A more forthright palate of rich Black Forest gateau, liquorice, macerated plum and hedgerow accents.
95 Piekenierskloof, Grenache Noir, Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain 2020 (14%)
£15.50 Stone Vine & Sun
Intense aromas, with nutmeg, ginger, blackberry, freshly roasted coffee beans and a hint of toasted oak. Well balanced, with controlled flavours of black cherry, damson, olive and Mediterranean herbs.
95 Ridgeback, Signature C, Paarl 2018 (14.5%)
£49.99 Charles Mitchell,
Richard Banks
Deliciously rich and complex ripe black fruit, Christmas cake,
old leather books, juniper and liquorice. Ripe, creamy palate, fresh and complex with a spicy vibrancy, and touches of herb adding to a cohesive, layered and rewarding palate.
95 Rust en Vrede, 1694 Classification, Stellenbosch 2017 (14.5%)
£110-£115 Cadman, Frontier Fine Wines, Gerrard Seel
Ripe plum and cherry aromas with bright cinnamon spice and sandalwood accents. Red, blue and black fruit sweetness is tempered with savoury, spicy highlights. Succulent finish, rounded, well framed by oak.
95 Uva Mira, OTV, Stellenbosch 2018 (14.5%)
£125 Museum Wines
Bramble, damson, black cherry and prunes in brandy, fruit cake notes and some curry leaf spice. Succulent and pliable palate, silky texture with a whip of gravelly acidity. Long, with an attractive cherry pip finish.
95 Welgegund Heritage Wines, Old Vine Cinsault, Wellington 2019
(14%) Opens with cinnamon buns, liquorice, bay leaf and red plums, with a hint of sweet Indian spices. The juicy palate has green herbs and a hint of bergamot with kirsch on the finish. Delicious lighter style.
GOLD
Sweet white
£51-£67/50cl Bon Coeur,
Fortnum & Mason, Handford, Hedonism, JN Wine, Laithwaites,
Lay & Wheeler, Noble Green,
The Champagne Co
Heady blooms, potpourri, jasmine, barley sugar. Rich palate, underlying freshness, dried apricots, fruit syrup, confit orange and lychee. Savoury nutty notes, marzipan, and a fresh, never-cloying elegance.