Atkin’s dozen: the French influence in Argentina

1 Piedra Negra, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano, Los Chacayes, Tunuyán, Mendoza 2020 96

£26 Vinatis†

Year in year out, Corte Friulano is one of Argentina’s best whites, with proven ageing potential to boot. Made from Sauvignon Vert (Friulano in northeast Italy, otherwise Sauvignonasse or Tai) and 10% Sauvignon Blanc – the Chardonnay and Viognier components are not included any more – it’s stony, tangy and refined, with some vanilla oak spice, green fig and pink grapefruit flavours and a flinty finish. Classy stuff. Drink 2022-2030 Alcohol 14.5%

2 Mendel, Semillon, Altamira, Mendoza 2020 95

£18-£19 Armit, The Oxford Wine Co, Tivoli Wines, Twelve Green Bottles, Wine Republic

This brilliant, ageworthy white was almost single-handedly responsible for re-establishing the Semillon category in Argentina. Made with fruit from two parcels, planted in 1957, it’s quite reticent in its youth, with subtle beeswax, citrus peel and green herb undertones framed by 85% new wood, but give it time. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.8%

Terrazas de los Andes, Reserva Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2020 90

£20 Millésima

Showing a little bit of the heat of the 2020 growing season, despite containing fruit from very high-altitude El Espinillo, this is a smoky, leesy, nicely textured Chardonnay, with peach and melon fruit and a buttery note from 60% malolactic fermentation. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13.8%

3 Bodegas Caro, Caro, Altamira, Mendoza 2018 98

£45-£55 Bon Coeur, DBM Wines, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, IG Wines, Laithwaites, Lay & Wheeler, Lea & Sandeman, The Oxford Wine Co, Vinvm, WoodWinters

Combining the considerable talents of Fernando Buscema and Philippe Rolet (the former made the wine, the latter did the blend), Caro was one of the wines of the vintage in 2018. Paraje Altamira is the source of this finely judged cuvée of Malbec and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 80% new wood. Subtle, graceful and perfumed, it’s a wine that carries its structure and concentration lightly, with graphite, cassis and blueberry fruit, fresh acidity and harmonious, caressing tannins. Superb stuff. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 14.6%

4 Bodegas Fabre, Alta-Yarí Gran Corte, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2019 97

£24.99 Majestic

Sourced from Hervé Joyaux Fabre’s high-altitude vineyards in Gualtallary, this is a leafy, scented, savoury assemblage of Cabernet Franc with 35% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Floral and intense, with remarkable freshness, focus and palate length, fine oak and notes of white pepper, tobacco leaf and red berry fruit. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 14.5%