FIVE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PRODUCERS TO KNOW
These talented young Pinot Gris producers have a lot in common. They largely avoid the Pinot Noir arena, are self-taught and their winemaking practices embrace skin contact, minimal intervention and modest alcohol.
CHAMPIONSHIP BOTTLE
Based in Amity, winemaker Saul Mutchnick makes a variety of minimal-intervention whites for his Championship label, including an exceptional Pinot Gris. In 2020, Mutchnick abandoned skin contact to make his Out on Love Pinot Gris as a white wine. Its clean, aciddriven beauty has Mutchnick thinking he might just keep his Pinot Gris white in future vintages. championshipbottle.com
FAIR MOON WINE
Fair Moon is a one-woman natural winemaking operation out of Amity, where Jessica Wilmes believes Pinot Gris’ purpose in life is to be orange. Her debut skin-contact Pinot Gris, the Sunshine Effect 2020, is a worthy homage to two producers who inspire her: Gravner and Radikon. Wilmes added Auxerrois and Tinto Cão to her line-up in 2022, so keep an eye out. fairmoonwine.com
MALOOF WINES
Bee and Ross Maloof stay out of nature’s way as much as possible while making some of the Willamette Valley’s best Pinot Gris in Forest Grove. Before winemaking, Bee was a materials engineer in the aerospace industry, while Ross was a sommelier for a vegan restaurant in Philadelphia. They both love pizza, as their ‘eat pizza, suck glass’ winery motto makes clear. maloofwines.com
MIJITA WINE CO
Lizzy Esqueda’s first wine for her Mijita label is a skin-contact Pinot Gris aged in neutral oak and old acacia barrels. It is absolutely brilliant juice: I wish Pinot Gris lovers everywhere could taste it. Esqueda makes her wines at PDX Revolution in downtown Portland, one of the world’s few all-female winery incubator/cooperatives. Wherever Mijita moves next, I’m following. 2025 SE 7th Ave, Portland, OR 97214
VARNUM VINTNERS
Based in Amity, Cyler and Taralyn Varnum (above) lighten their carbon footprint by using lighter 37.5cl glass beer bottles to house some of their red, white, pink and sparkling wines. My current favourite wine to serve from a beer bottle is a Pinot Gris rosé that was aged on its skins for two weeks. Innovation plus good wine is a winning equation. varnumvintners.com