Willamette Valley: 12 top Pinot Gris wines to enjoy

Ponzi Vineyards, Old Vine, Chehalem Mountains 2018 96

A dazzling wine made with fruit from a section of the original Ponzi estate vineyard planted in 1970. After fermentation with native yeasts and six months of lees stirring, the wine stays in neutral Pinot Noir barrels for almost two years. The wine possesses an otherworldly texture, accompanied by aromas and flavours of butterscotch, papaya, orange blossoms and cardamom spice. Wow! Drink 2022-2032 Alcohol 13.6%

1 The Eyrie Vineyards, Estate, Dundee Hills 2020 95

£28.43 (2017) Christopher Keiller

This is the bar by which many Willamette Valley producers measure their own Pinot Gris. Made with certified organic grapes, the wine’s pale moonbeam colour casts its glow on aromas of orange blossom honey, lemon verbena and a trace of vanilla.

Flavours of honeycomb, lemon sorbet and white grapefruit complement a lithe texture backed by acidity that packs a pop. Drink 2022-2034 Alc 12.8%

2 Alexana, Terroir Series 2018 94

£24.99-£25.95 Eton Vintners, The Wine Twit, Vineyard Cellars

While Alexana is well known for its Pinot Noirs, this producer is equally adept when it comes to Pinot Gris. The Terroir Series has fresh, floral aromatics including gardenias, wild roses, lemon tea and a few drops of rainwater. The palate is creamy and rich, with modest acidity and flavours such as lemon chiffon cake, cantaloupe and thyme. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13.5%

Evesham Wood, Blanc du Puits Sec, Eola-Amity Hills 2021 94

This Pinot Gris blend includes a portion of Gewürztraminer and homeopathic amounts of Pinot Blanc, Traminer, Rieslaner and Kerner. The wines are co-fermented in barrel, followed by six months in neutral French oak. It is spicy, lithe and elegant, with aromas and flavours of lemon, lychee, ginger, orange blossom and wet concrete drying in the sun. Its acidity will spark the imagination. Organic. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12.5%

Brooks, Estate, Eola-Amity Hills 2021 93

POA Ester Wines

Brooks may be known for its Riesling and Pinot Noir, but this biodynamic producer also makes a fine Pinot Gris with fruit from 43-year-old estate vines. The aromas and flavours of this wine produced in stainless steel are dominated by peaches, Granny Smith apples, lemon zest, pears and a saline note that will have you pining for the sea shore. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%

Elk Cove Vineyards, Estate 2021 93

£23.50 Amathus Drinks

This is an excellent Pinot Gris from one of the region’s standard-bearers. Made with 100% estate fruit that was whole-cluster-pressed into stainless steel tanks, the straw-coloured wine smells like white peaches and toasted coconut. Pear and peach flavours are joined by hazelnuts on the rich, full palate. The wine’s zippy acidity is like a surprise ending to a movie. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%

3 Lange Estate, Reserve, Dundee Hills 2021 93

£41 (2017) Humble Grape

The Lange family uses neutral French oak and concrete tanks for fermentation and ageing, claiming the oak lends silkiness while the concrete adds weight. The wine’s lemon colour is the perfect segue to scents of lemon sorbet, peach and honeysuckle, then a velvety mouthfeel accompanies flavours of ripe orchard fruit and lemon hard candies. The acidity comes across as just right. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.3%

4 Maloof, Temperance Hill, Eola-Amity Hills 2020 93

Direct-pressed then fermented and aged on the lees without stirring for 10 months in Burgundy oak barrels, this wine is the colour of a faded sunflower, and has aromas of fresh-cut grass, earth, orange peel, beeswax, saline and sweet baked carrots. Flavours like pear, lemon verbena and fresh-baked bread glide on a rich palate, with enough acidity to trigger a tingle. Organic. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12%

5 AD Beckham, Amphora, Chehalem Mountains 2019 95

£31.67 Iconic Wines

This magenta-coloured wine was fermented and aged on skins for up to 10 months in amphorae made by winemaker Andrew Beckham. The aromas of grilled peaches and crispy salmon skins made my mouth water. The flavour combination of quince, rhubarb and hazelnuts is equally compelling. Toss in a one-two punch of bold tannins and elevated acidity for good measure. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 12.3%

Fossil & Fawn 2020 94

Jim Fischer and Jenny Mosbacher think Pinot Gris reaches its full potential with extended maceration. Their oak-aged Pinot Gris made as a red wine has been successfully making the point since 2014. This year’s model is the colour of blood orange juice, with aromas and flavours of nectarines, strawberries, saline and white pepper. The tannins clearly announce their presence. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12.2%

Vincent Wine Co 2019 92

Vincent Fritzsche treats his Pinot Gris fruit to three weeks on the skins to extract colour and tannin structure. It is darker than most rosés yet lighter than most Pinot

Noirs. With fine-grained tannins and flavours like blackcap raspberries, orange zest, hibiscus and black pepper, if you close your eyes you might think you are drinking a red wine. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 12.5%

6 The Marigny, Carbonic Maceration 2021 91

Andy Young throws one impressive whole-cluster carbonic maceration party. The big-time rock drummer-turned-winemaker transforms his Pinot Gris fruit into a tangerine-coloured brew that smells like a warm croissant smeared with apricot jam. The wine’s dominant flavours of orange and hibiscus are joined by traces of white tea and tonic water. It has modest tannins and an acid beat you can dance to. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.1% D