Decanter

Get a País of the action: Smith’s 10 to try

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1 Ignacio Pino Román, Itata 2020 93

£28 The Finest Wines Available to Humanity

A País from 150-year-old vines on decomposed granite soil. Aged in steel tank, which gives greater fruit purity and linearity. Impressive concentrat­ion, even with its gossamer frame. Sweet, softly spiced, red cherry and blackberry fruits, with a fine mineral core and refreshing acidity. One of the most elegant expression­s of País that money can buy. Drink 2022-2027 Alcohol 11.5%

2 Roberto Henríquez, País Franco, Bío Bío/Itata 2020 93

£24.70 161 Food & Drink

Beautiful pomegranat­e colour. Shows the wonderful balsamic herb expression of 200-year-old País on Henríquez’s Santa Juana property in Bío Bío. It has almost Pinot Noir-like fruit, with dried herbs and hints of Negroni spice. Vibrant and juicy, strawberry and cranberry fruit on the palate, and a deliciousl­y tangy mineral finish. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12%

3 Louis-Antoine Luyt, El País de Quenehuao, Maule 2019 91

louisantoi­neluyt.cl

País made in a semi-carbonic style similar to Marcel Lapierre’s Morgon. Lapierre helped Louis-Antoine Luyt choose this historic parcel of País because of its similariti­es with Beaujolais’ famous Côte du Py. Mediumbodi­ed, finely structured and fruit-forward, with intense notes of dark cherry and blackcurra­nt. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14%

4 Macatho, Segundo Flores, Maule 2020 91

@agricolama­catho

A País that expresses the soil and minerality of Pilen Alto in Maule. From a cool vineyard plot higher than 350m, 20km from the ocean. The decomposed granite soils here contain the mineral pyrite (fool’s gold), and the wine has a smoky Mezcal-like note to its earthy raspberry and cranberry fruit. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14%

5 A Los Viñateros Bravos, Granítico, Itata 2021 90

£15.50 Latitude Wine

Evokes the underbrush aromas of Itata’s wild grass. Subtly smoky with bright red fruits, a touch of cassis and a pronounced white pepper note. Fine tannins provide an elegant structure and a lingering, mineral finish. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 11.5%

El Viejo Almacén de Sauzal, Chilena, Maule 2016 90

£27.50 Wine Republic

A País made the traditiona­l way, in raulí wood casks, by viticultur­ist-turned-winemaker Renán Cancino. From 300-yearold own-rooted País vines. Earthy, rustic and unique, with smoky forest fruits, and a dried and lively acidity. A wine with surprising ageing potential. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%

Roberto Henríquez, Fundo La Unión, Itata 2020 90

£25 Raw Wine

From a coastal Itata vineyard, with cooler conditions than the interior, this is a delicate, poised País. Soft and feathery but with concentrat­ion that comes from the deep-rooted old vines on granitic soils. Subtly smoky, with herbal red cherry, strawberry bootlace and rosehip fruit, and a sappy dry finish. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 11%

González Bastías, Matorral, Maule 2019 89

£18.99-£20.95 Indigo Wine, The Cellar Hand, The Sourcing Table, Thorne Wines

José Luis Gómez Bastías is the fifth generation to make wine from centenaria­n vines on the south bank of the Maule river. Fermented in large pipas, this País spends 12 months in old oak, bringing a subtle spiciness to the grape’s classic earthy tones and bright red-black fruits. Concentrat­ed in fruit but easy to drink thanks to its refreshing acidity. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 13%

Vinos Mingaco, Maule 2020 89

POA Wines Under the Bonnet

Aromatics of a different order – surely down to the natural farming that Mingaco practises and the microflora in the vineyards. Vivid eucalyptus and blackcurra­nt leaf, then anise-basil herbal and sweet citrus aromas, combined with gem-like red fruits. Constantly evolving. So lively on the palate, with sappy red berry fruit and a refreshing finish. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 13%

Estación Yumbel, Pipeño, Bío Bío 2021 88

£13.69-£14.95 North & South Wines, Seven Cellars, Sip Wines

Based in Yumbel, Bío Bío, Mauricio Gonzalez Carreño is a winemaker with an uncomporom­ising commitment to the traditiona­l farming and winemaking of the south of Chile. He makes this País in the light, quaffable ‘pipeño’ style. Combines tart red fruits and the grape’s characteri­stic earthiness, with subtle cinnamon-type spice. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 12%

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Renán Cancino, Huaso de Sauzal (see p53)
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