The wines to match

Cold beer is probably the automatic go-to for many taco fans, but this modern twist from Tommi Miers could be an equally good foil for a refreshing glass of white wine. To work out which one to pick, you need to take a hard look at the recipe. You’re not matching the tortillas or even the beans. The fact they’re charred is neither here or there – it’s more about the other ingredients. There’s a fair amount of garlic and punchy capers, but it’s the fresh tomato pico or salsa with its wine-challenging raw onion, chilli, lime and coriander that you really need to take into account.

My instinct would be to add some more citrus by way of Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a huge choice out there, of course, but I’d probably go for a Chilean or Californian one, which tend to be more citrussy than their New Zealand counterparts. Or you could plump for a Rueda, some of which is also Sauvignon-based but more commonly the Sauvignonlike Verdejo grape, and which successfully handles these kinds of flavours in Spanish food. Wine suggestions from decanter.com.

Try: Frog’s Leap, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California, USA 2020 90

£21.90-£25.49 Hic, The Drink Shop, Vinvm, Wine Direct

Influenced by Sancerre, winemaker John Williams has been crafting this organically certified, dry-farmed wine since he founded the winery in 1981. Seven months on lees gives lovely weight and texture to the zingy citrus, fresh herb and tart nectarine flavours. Bone-dry, unoaked and very drinkable. Drink 2022-2026 Alcohol 13%

Try: Morrisons, The Best Canto Real Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 2021 88

£7.75 Morrisons

Flinty stone fruits and crushed minerals on the nose; saline and bitter lime peel on a savoury palate, with lipsmacking acidity and white pepper spice. Crisp green apple follows through to the salivating finish. A refreshing Verdejo produced by the reliable Diez Siglos for Morrisons. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13%