EXCITING TIMES IN THE ENTRE-DEUX-MERS
The largest winemaking region in Bordeaux is quietly undergoing a transformation as the go-to place for fresh, lively and captivating white wines.
Entre-Deux-Mers, which translates as ‘between the seas’, owes its name to the location between the banks of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, both of which are directly influenced by the proximity to the Atlantic, with their tides (‘marées’) playing a crucial role in shaping the region’s landscape and terroirs. The area covers nine AOCs and 133 communes in total, and is home to an array of versatile dry, sweet and sparkling styles covering red, white and rosé wine production. Only the whites, however, are entitled to use the Entre-deux-Mers AOC title.
Land of opportunity
The Entre-deux-Mers region, with its beautiful rolling hills between 10m and 100m in altitude, is arguably where Bordeaux’s prettiest vineyards can be found. Far-reaching vistas of verdant vines thrive in the mild oceanic climate, surrounded by the richness of its local mediaeval heritage.
Indeed the setting for this tasting was the Entre-deux-Mers Maison du Vin, in La Sauve, in direct view of the Abbaye de la Sauve-Majeure. Situated just 25km outside of Bordeaux, the 12th-century Romanesque UNESCO World Heritage Site was where the Benedictine monks were first charged with clearing the region and developing vine cultivation. Lucky for us they did.
Today, the Entre-deux-Mers appellation covers just over 1,600 hectares under vine, accounting for 31% of the entire white grape plantings in the region (12,001ha) and, at 86,512 hectolitres per year, 39% of the total white wine production. It also boasts an impressively high environmental consciousness with 94% of vineyards having a sustainable or eco-friendly certification, be that Organic, HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) or Bee Friendly.
With prices of vineyard land, and by proxy of the wines they yield, soaring in other parts of the wider Bordeaux region, the Entre-deux-Mers is a dynamic region attracting young, ambitious and savvy winemakers who want to benefit from the ideal terroirs the area provides for white wine production. More than 300 winemakers, half of which are independent, have an average of 5.5ha from which to create their zesty, energetic and approachable wines.
The wines are typically blends, made from varying amounts of Sauvignon Blanc (usually the biggest proportion), Sémillon and Muscadelle. Some include small percentages of Sauvignon Gris and Ugni Blanc, however none of the wines listed below contain the latter.
Being so close to two rivers, vineyard soils are predominantly alluvial, made up of varying proportions of loose clay, silt, sand and gravel with small pockets of limestone. High porosity is a benefit in hot vintages as these soils require less water than other, denser profiles.
Due to the varying locations and altitude of vines, as well as choices of winemakers (including whether or not to age the wine in barrels), it’s hard to pinpoint an exact style of Entre-deuxMers whites. Winemakers tend to favour a dominance of Sauvignon Blanc to give the wines brightness, vibrancy and acidity, with Sémillon adding structure, body and suppleness. Meanwhile, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris offer a floral and highly aromatic element as well as some viscosity.
This tasting of 50 wines was primarily based around the most-recently bottled 2021 vintage with a handful of 2020 wines. Both vintages presented different challenges for winemakers – hot and wet conditions in 2020; frost, hail, mildew and rot in 2021 – yet produced an array of successful white wines across the two years. As always in Bordeaux, obstacles were either very localised, or dependent on each winemaker’s decisions at key moments.
While not strictly conclusive, the wines that don’t see oak retain a wonderful sense of energy and liveliness, giving crunchy fruit, refreshing acidity and easy drinkability. These are wines that are typically best drunk as young as possible,
ideally within the first two years of being bottled, so the 2021s are perfect to buy and drink now.
The best examples showcased bright citrus or tropical flavours, with some having a delicious and moreish minerality – a saline, wet stone touch – as well some herbal notes, depending on terroir. Spiced notes were less present, with the wines allowed to showcase inviting aromas of honeysuckle, elderflower and orange blossom, as well as crisp orchard and white stone fruit aspects.
They make excellent apéritif wines and can easily be served on their own, especially when chilled to between 8-10°C, to enjoy on warm summer days. However, many also have enough body, structure and flavour to pair well with food. Some of the best pairings include seafood, fresh fish and oysters - a Bordeaux speciality - but also creamy pasta and risotto dishes. Among the more gastronomic examples are those aged in oak, six of which were selected and highlighted below.
Unrivalled quality and value
There really is something for everyone here so read the tasting notes carefully to see which style and flavour profile would most suit your palate and dining options.
In addition to the quality on show, an added benefit is the exceptional value these wines offer. Only three wines are listed with a price of 10 Euros or above, with the majority being between six and eight Euros. An almost unrivalled combination of quality and value for white wine around the world - perhaps one reason why so many bottles are kept and sold in France. Only roughly 27% of the nine-million bottle annual production is exported so you may need to seek out some of these wines directly from the winemakers and have them shipped internationally.
This tasting absolutely highlighted the Entre-deux-Mers as a go-to region for drinkable and affordable everyday whites with freshness, energy and wide appeal. The Entre-deux-Mers AOC will also, from the 2023 vintage, encompass red wine production, confirming the dynamism of the region and of its forwardthinking winemaking community.
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Château Brondeau du Tertre 2021 92
Floral hints and crisp green fruits on the nose.This 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle blend is generous and flavourful on the palate with lemon, crisp green apple, peach and a touch of papaya fruit. Harmonious, with balanced acidity, fruit forwardness and gentle sweetness. While structure makes it a great wine to have with food, it also carries enough nuance to have on its own. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château La Mothe du Barry, Cuvée French Kiss 2021 92
A very nice equal blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gris. Caramel, green apple and pear on the nose, lined by herbal notes. The palate is vibrant and well balanced – delicate yet precise, with direction and a clarity to the pear and apricot flavours. Harmonious acid drive from start to finish. Crisp enough to drink on its own but with the structure to accompany food. Drink 2022-2024
Château la Grande Métairie 2021 91
Lively and bright, there is a lovely sharp lemon and lime tang to this on the attack, the clear acidity giving a mouthwatering effect before more nuanced bitter edges and mineral touches come to the fore. Clear and defined with a hint of succulent sweetness and salinity. Extremely well made. A majority 85% of Sauvignon Blanc with 10% Muscadelle and 5% Sauvignon Gris. HVE certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Bellevue 2021 91
Lemon and white chocolate aromas, alongside orange, peach, apricot and a hint of honeysuckle. Lovely unctuousness from this blend of equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon which has an appealing viscosity in counterpoint to the high acidity, soft sweetness and creamy fruit profile. A delicious combination of slightly confected sweets and bitter citrus. Lifted and joyful but carefully delivered. Drink 2022-2024
Château La Lande de Taleyran 2021 90
Beautifully nuanced nose and a lovely density of ripe and honeyed lemon on the palate of this blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Sémillon. Gentle sweet and rich texture, with the acidity present but not dominating the fruit. Excellent character and style on show – it has clarity and structure with a lifted, lemon and pear drop finish. A great food wine with a chalky, mineral finish. HVE certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Nicot 2021 90
White chocolate, vanilla and lemon juice on the nose. Excellent balance between rich honeyed lemon and peach flavours with bright acidity supporting the Sauvignon Blanc frame, upon which the Sémillon and Muscadelle rest. The tang on the cheeks is pleasant as is the bitter orange rind element, carrying all the flavours through to a long finish. Structured and well delivered. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Haut-Rian 2021 90
Such an intriguing nose, full of aromatic complexity – pear, lemongrass, herbs, elderflower, white blossom, apple and vanilla. Unctuous and nicely rich on the palate thanks to the 60% Sémillon. The acidity sits in the background letting the fruit and the slightly savoury elements do the talking. Serious and structured with a mineral line giving some salty notes. Delicious freshness and an almost mint-laced finish. Drink 2022-2024
Château du Champs du Moulin, Cuvée L de Liessi 2021 90
Lovely honeyed, caramel lemon touch to the nose with soft peach blossom stemming from the equal split of Sauvignon Blanc and Gris. Rich and detailed, this has a good frame with layers that settle on the tongue but also remain through to a long finish. Full of tension and focus, with texture and drive, nicely countering the expansive flavours and overall freshness. Almost minty on the finish with pleasant salty lemon nuances. Drink 2022-2024
Château Le Prieur 2021 90
The dominance of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend (90%) accounts for the expressive vanilla, lemon and cardamom aromas on the nose. Joyous expression of citrus fruit with lemon, pineapple and a touch of apricot at the fore. Succulent and mouth watering but also textural and long, with balanced acidity and weight. Lovely delivery, with punch, poise and a delicious lemon finish. Drink 2022-2024
Château Rauzan Despagne 2021 90
Aromatic and floral, with peas, elderflower, lychees and Turkish Delight on the nose. Crisp and fresh on the palate with a lemon zing in the background. The florality also marks the palate making this quite a distinctive style – the 20% of Sémillon and 5% Muscadelle appearing more than the 65% Sauvignon Blanc. Well judged acidity with a hint of moreish salinity. Overall balanced and joyful. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château La Peyre 2021 90
Wild honey blossom, elderflower, apricot and toasted lemon meringue on the nose. The barrel-aged 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon blend gives a combination of sharp, tangy and sweet fruit with balanced acidity and appealing, creamy texture. Well delivered with direction, persistence and character. Last year of organic conversion. Drink 2022-2024
Château Vermont, La Grande Cuvée 2020 90
Almonds and toasted patisserie aromas, from the barrel ageing, alongside dried apricots and pear nuances. Excellent energy in the mouth, with the upfront citrus and white stone fruit nicely balanced by the acidity. The wood elements are well integrated and add depth with hints of nuttiness and caramel. A round, characterful blend of
70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Gris. Drink 2022-2024
Château de Crain 2021 90
Very typical Sauvignon Blanc aromas despite being only 28% of the blend (with 27% Sauvignon Gris, 35% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle). Grass, elderflower and lemon follow through on the palate with lovely floral scents and a rich mouth-coating lemon flavour. A subtle bitterness gives structure and nuance to this polished and supremely balanced wine. Drink 2022 2024
Château de Beauregard Ducourt 2021 90
A well delivered, energetic blend of Sauvignon Blanc (67%) and Sémillon (33%) that will find fans on a hot summer’s day. White flowers are quite prominent on the nose, alongside pear and white chocolatecovered peaches. Supple, succulent and sharp, with a mouthwatering quality. Direct, punchy and upfront. Drink 2022-2024
Château Grand Jean 2021 89
The 70% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend is fully reflected in the green apple, freshly cut grass, stone fruit and citrus aromas. Bright acidity fills the mouth with tangy lemon, lime and pineapple fruit. There are also appealing salty and mineral edges. Very refreshing – great to drink on its own or pair with a creamy pasta dish. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Haut Domingue 2021 89
Delicately zesty with subtle acidity gently propelling the lemon, peach, apricot and grapefruit fruit. Creamy, chalky edges give depth, nuance and a touch of stoniness. Excellent presentation of the slightly dominant Sémillon wine (50%) with 40% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sauvignon Gris. Long finish. Drink 2022-2024
Château Thieuley 2021 89
Quite aromatic and expressive on the nose – orange, vanilla, white chocolate, lemon verbena and peach flesh. Lovely structure with acidity carrying the lemon, lime and orange fruit to the finish.
Nicely weighted in the mouth and with a long finish. In organic conversion.
Drink 2022-2024
Château Roquefort, Rives 2021 89
Round, excellently balanced on the palate, delivering crunchy, zesty and slightly bitter fruit - mainly pear (fresh and confected pear drops), apple, lemon and orange. The fruit feels well worked with a pristine, focussed quality. Good concentration, lively acidity and excellent delivery. In organic conversion. Drink 2022-2024
Château la Tuilerie du Puy, Cuvée Tradition 2021 89
A blend of all four varietals – Sauvignon Blanc (65%) and Gris (5%), Sémillon (20%) and Muscadelle (10%) – this is aromatic and expressive, with pear drop, lemongrass and apricot aromas. Lovely richness on the palate. Acidity is high but well balanced with citrus elements. Gentle sucrosity alongside tangy edges which give nuance and structure. HVE certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Lauduc 2021 89
Grass, elderflower and green apple notes in this fresh, well worked wine. High acidity is upfront and lively with delicious crunchy citrus that give nuance and structure. Minty fresh finish. Nice concentration and styling. Good drive here. In organic conversion. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Bel Air Perponcher 2021 89
A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Sémillon and 5% Muscadelle that is rich and concentrated with lots of personality. Cardamom, white chocolate, tonka bean, caramel and lemon on the nose.
The acidity provides just enough lift to keep it refreshing. Good persistence from start to finish. A great food wine. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château de L’Hoste, Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2021 89
Exotic fruits mingle with toasted patisserie and cinnamon on the nose – an indication of barrel ageing in this 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon. Round and generous on the palate, this has a lot of life driving the lemon, lime, peach and grapefruit flavours. The wood feels expertly handled, supporting the frame rather than overpowering the fruit and freshness. Tangy and bright, with energy and precision. Drink 2022-2024
Château Haut Cazevert 2021 89
Bright pineapple aromas give the exotic fruit touch, while citrus touches provide more nuance and florality to this
Sauvignon Gris-dominant wine (48%, with 29% Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Muscadelle). Tangy and forward in the mouth, with bitter pineapple and peach coating the smooth edges. Acidity keeps things lifted. Harmonious and easy to drink.
Drink 2022-2024
Château La Rose du Pin 2021 89
Lemongrass, vanilla, lime zest and apricot notes on the nose. This blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon is tangy and lifted, with pronounced, vibrant acidity. Precise and focussed, with a hint of sweetness that is playful and enjoyable. Truly delivers on the crisp, aromatic and crunchy fruit side and is so easy to drink. Drink 2022-2024
Château Sainte Marie Vieilles Vignes 2021 89
Seductive lemon and white chocolate on the nose. Bright and zesty, with a distinct mineral vein and nice purity of fruit – lots of white peach, apricot and lime from the 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle. Acidity is perfectly judged giving pleasant vibrancy. A delightful wine with a touch of creaminess that rounds it off. HVE3 certified. In organic conversion.
Bee friendly. Drink 2022-2024
Château Nardique La Gravière 2021 88
A blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris, 30% Sémillon and 5% Muscadelle with soft floral flecks alongside orange peel and apricot nuances on the nose. Bright and lively on the palate with an initial kick of acidity and delicate minerality. The wet stone, chalky edge to the lemon, green apple and nectarine flavours is very moreish. Drink 2022-2024
Château Vermont Prestige 2021 88
Very appealing nose of lemon, lime and white chocolate. Round and unctuous, this 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Gris has a lovely mouthwatering aspect with a slight richness to the apricot, peach and nectarine flavours. Moreish nuances of orange zest and bitter grapefruit. Extremely stylish. Drink 2022-2024
Château Grand Jean, Le Veggie 2021 88
Peach, white chocolate, vanilla and lemon on the nose. This 60/40 Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon blend is zesty, upfront and very easy to drink. It has a sherbet tang to the fruit, filling the mouth with lively lemon and lime followed by exotic touches of pineapple and passion fruit. The freshness and acidity are well balanced. HVE3 certified. Vegan. Drink 2022-2024
Château Landereau 2021 88
Incredible aromatic expressiveness on the nose – a benefit of an almost equal split between Sauvignon Blanc (20%), Sauvignon Gris (20%), Sémillon (20%) and Muscadelle (10%). Lively and lifted notes of lemon sweets, pear drops, green apple, mango and pineapple. Similar profile on the palate, with both acidity and bitterness creating layers of nuance and complexity. Drink 2022-2024
Château de Fontenille 2021 88
A structured, food friendly wine made from a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris, 10% Sémillon and 20% Muscadelle. Gorgeous nose full of aromatic expression; lemon, vanilla, cardamom, honeysuckle, grapefruit and lemon blossom. Bright and zesty but also creamy and slightly spiced. High acidity adds lift while bitter citrus give edge and bite. Drink 2022-2024
Château Lestrille 2021 88
Characterful, fresh blend of 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 14% Sémillon. Elderflower, lemon zest and ripe pears on the nose. Chalky, creamy acidity underpins the more fragrant and slightly bitter but enjoyable citrus and stone fruits. Harmonious, well delivered and with pristine clarity. Drink 2022-2024
Château Lagrange 2021 88
Caramelised lemons, honey, lemon and peach on the nose, as well as hints of coffee. Viscous texture and concentration with a gentle acid lift. Enjoyable succulence, with an upfront lemon flavour, and the 40% Sémillon making a mark through an undertone of brioche and patisserie. Well balanced and perfect to have with food. Organic (Ecocert) certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Turcaud 2021 88
Floral nose, the 45% Sémillon giving the aromatics alongside 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Muscadelle. Really quite fragrant with jasmine, lavender, violets and roses alongside citrus fruit elements. Lifted and lively on the palate. The initial burst of freshness and acid kick subside leaving a chalky, mineral tang on the softly persistent palate. Drink 2022-2024
Château Vignol 2021 88
Good initial energy delivering a shot of sweet and sharp lemon juiciness before the chalky, wet stone touches come through. Direct and focussed with drive and presence in the mouth. Nice lime aspects and a metallic taste that lingers on the tongue. A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris, 15% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle. Drink 2022 2024
Château Malène 2021 88
High-toned lemon and lime zest on the nose along with floral elements. After the initial burst of sharp flavours comes an appealing, chalky creaminess. It softens and expands in the mouth, with a gourmet and mineral tone. Nice balance of fruit sweetness, bitterness and acidity in this blend of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon and 30% Muscadelle. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Terres de Guennec, Armony 2021 88
Perfumed, very charming, scents on the nose. Lemon, peach, apricot with bitter grapefruit edges mingle on the palate. Caramelised almond touches add savoury nuttiness and hint of the barrel ageing which is well integrated, giving structure and nuance. Lovely overall feel and presentation for this 70/15/15 blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. Drink 2022-2024
Château Sainte Marie, Cuvée Madlys 2020 88
Lovely aromas on the nose; caramel, lemon, vanilla, cinnamon spice and orange blossom. Richly flavoured and textured. Citrus fruits counter the caramel notes from the barrel ageing which are a little prominent though give a wide frame. The emphasis is on the structure rather than the overt freshness at this point but there is lovely clarity to the elements. HVE3 certified. Bee friendly. Drink 2022-2024
Château Roquefort, Cuvée Roquefortissime Blanc 2020 88
Beautiful, expressive Sauvignon Blanc aromas (95% blended with 5% Sémillon). Lively and focussed with the florality sitting alongside lemon and lime zestiness. The barrel ageing is on show, giving the fruit frame and a caramel nuance. Will likely benefit from a year in the cellar. In organic conversion. Drink 2022-2024
Château Bonnet 2021 88
Subtle and welcoming herbal and floral scents. Nice push of flavour from the start giving sharp and zesty lemon from the 85% Sauvignon Blanc, and creamy peach with a soft toasted patisserie edge from the 15% Sémillon. The bitter edges balance the bright citrus fruit. Gentle, smooth and easy drinking. HVE3 certified. Drink 2022-2024
Château Hostin le Roc 2021 88
This 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gris has a lovely grassy, herbal element to the nose alongside lemon, apricot and grapefruit notes. Delicate and gentle from the first sip. Gorgeous bitter twist to the citrus, peach and soft honeyed aspects with a creamy lemon finish. Acidity is delicate. Nicely balanced and with pleasant gourmet character. Drink 2022-2024