Get­away

Ex­plore Am­s­ter­dam’s coolest cul­tural quar­ter, Jor­daan

ELLE Decoration (UK) - - Contents -

THE NEIGH­BOUR­HOOD North of the ma­jor mu­se­ums and west of the red-light district’s cof­fee shops lies the cross­hatch of canals that is Jor­daan. Pic­ture-per­fect bridges link res­i­den­tial boule­vards with the ‘Nine Streets’ district of plen­ti­ful mar­kets, cafés and de­sign shops. Read on for our guide to the hid­den gems in this pic­turesque area.

WHERE TO STAY Oc­cu­py­ing a row of 25 water­side town­houses, most built around 1615, the Pulitzer ho­tel (1) has just re­opened fol­low­ing a re­vamp that per­fectly com­bines grandiose (Old Master oil paint­ings, an­tique chan­de­liers, mini-bars on Art Deco drinks trol­leys and vel­vet chairs by Sé Lon­don) with low-key (in-room bike re­pair kits and at­tic rooms with beams). Dou­bles from £235 per night (Prin­sen­gracht 315; pulitzer­am­s­ter­dam.com). Am­s­ter­dam also has great Airbnb prop­er­ties, from bed­sits up in the eaves to spa­cious open-plan mid­cen­tury apart­ments (airbnb.com).

WINE AND DINE Book a beer tast­ing at Hoppa! (2), a new joint pi­o­neer­ing Am­s­ter­dam’s brew­ing her­itage (Sin­gel 460; hoppa.am­s­ter­dam), or stop by the quirky Ves­per Bar (3) for a strong cock­tail ( Vinken­straat 57; ves­per­bar.nl). Try the de­li­cious lamb and feta burg­ers at Venus & Ado­nis (4), whose de­sign is in­spired by the paint­ing by Rem­brandt’s ap­pren­tice Fer­di­nand Bol (Prin­sen­gracht 274; venuse­nad­nois.nl); or head to Restau­rant T Zwaan­tje (5) for Bel­gianstyle mus­sels; it tends to be burst­ing with lo­cals (Beren­straat 12; zwaan­tje-restau­rant.nl).

BREAK­FAST AND LUNCH On a Satur­day visit No­or­der­markt (6), which orig­i­nally pur­veyed pi­geons and ca­naries, but is now a farmer’s mar­ket sell­ing ev­ery­thing from or­ganic eggs to fresh fish and – ideal with a hot cof­fee to start the day – loaves of gin­gery ont­bi­jtkoek, ‘ break­fast cake’. For lunch, stop by Winkel ( 8, No­or­der­markt 43; winkel43.nl) for a hearty stew and rye sand­wich. Or head to cosy-but-chic Ree7 ( 7) for an omelette (Reestraat 7; ree7.nl).

ARTS AND CUL­TURE An artis­tic home as it was dur­ing Am­s­ter­dam’s 17th-cen­tury Golden Age, Mu­seum Van Loon (9) is a pri­vate res­i­dence still owned by the Van Loon fam­ily: rooms are painted in gor­geous hues and the for­mal gar­den is a joy (Keiz­ers­gracht 672; mu­se­um­van­loon.nl). Also visit Yel­lowko­rner (10), a con­tem­po­rary gallery with a mis­sion to make pho­tog­ra­phy ac­ces­si­ble to all (Sin­gel 282; yel­lowko­rner.com).

SHOP Book­worms should head to Ar­chi­tec­tura & Natura (11), a li­brary-like space packed with tomes on these two sub­jects (Leliegracht 22; ar­chi­tec­tura.nl), while Moooi (12) is a must-visit for all mod­ern de­sign fiends ( Wester­straat 187; moooi.com). Fi­nally, Anouk Beer­ents (13) spe­cialises in buy­ing, sell­ing and restor­ing Ital­ian and French mir­rors, and her open-house stu­dio hap­pily wel­comes voyeurs (Prin­sen­gracht 467; anouk­beer­ents.nl).

IN­SIDER TIP Cook­ing din­ner in your rented apart­ment? Buy a bot­tle to ac­com­pany it from Peter Re­nalda’s cel­lar, De Wi­jn­winkel Re­nalda (14). He has been sell­ing crates to Am­s­ter­dam’s most exclusive restau­rants and one-off wines to dis­cern­ing drinkers since 1985 – the prices may be higher than av­er­age, but the ad­vice and chat is on the house (Run­straat 23; wi­jn­winkel.com).

ED

Words CHAR­LOTTE BROOK

The Pulitzer ho­tel oc­cu­pies a row of 25 water­side houses and has its own barge

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