THE PLACE

ZÜRICH

ELLE Decoration (UK) - - Content -

Switzer­land’s largest city is the birth­place of Dada, the an­ti­war, pro-cre­ativ­ity art move­ment that sprung up in 1916 and whose off­beat – and of­ten satir­i­cal – out­put largely in­spired Paris’ sub­se­quent Sur­re­al­ism. So far, so fas­ci­nat­ing. But that was 100 years ago: since then, the lake­side me­trop­o­lis has be­come bet­ter known as the home of francs, fi­nance and fon­dues.

To­day, Zürich is un­doubt­edly find­ing its feet as a con­tem­po­rary, cre­ative cap­i­tal. What started with a hand­ful of in­de­pen­dent cof­fee shops crop­ping up in the Old Town (see su­per-cool French joint Fran­zos and Miro’s mo­bile cof­fee truck) has grown into a grass­roots emer­gence of cul­ture, en­com­pass­ing art, food, and film. Here’s our pick of the city’s best hotspots – and how to ex­plore them in style. Stay In the heart of the Old Town at Mark­t­gasse Ho­tel – the city’s first proper ‘de­sign ho­tel’ (above), which re­cently opened in a listed 15th-cen­tury build­ing that served for 600 years as an inn. The orig­i­nal stucco and wall pan­elling has been per­fectly pre­served, and is com­ple­mented by pared-back Nordic de­signs, par­quet floor­ing, mid-cen­tury fur­ni­ture and a beau­ti­ful, well-stocked li­brary (dou­bles from £184; mark­t­gasse­ho­tel.ch). Visit Enea, a sublime open air ‘tree mu­seum’ near Lake Zürich. Its ex­hibits range from new saplings to 100-year-old rare pines among frag­ments of Bru­tal­ist con­crete ar­chi­tec­ture and fig­u­ra­tive sculp­tures (enea.ch). The Dada scene’s fa­mous for­mer haunt, Cabaret Voltaire, is also ex­pe­ri­enc­ing a re­nais­sance. Housed in a me­dieval build­ing, the gallery’s Art Deco-style bar is the perfect spot to sip a glass of house ab­sinthe while lis­ten­ing to the smooth sounds of a live jazz band (cabaret­voltaire.ch). Eat A tech­ni­colour salad at Haus Hiltl (right), the world’s old­est veg­e­tar­ian restau­rant – painted grass green on the out­side, but with an un­ex­pect­edly mod­ern in­te­rior (hiltl.ch). Or en­joy a schnitzel at Kro­nen­hall, the brasserie fre­quented by Gi­a­cometti and Coco Chanel, which dou­bles as a free-ad­mis­sion art gallery, fea­tur­ing paint­ings by Miró and Marc Cha­gall ( kro­nen­halle.ch). See Films. Check out Kino Stüs­si­hof – a for­mer erotic pic­ture­house show­ing in­die movies (arena.ch) – and the an­nual cin­e­matic fes­ti­val, at which films are ac­com­pa­nied by live mu­sic (stat­tkino.com).

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