LIVE LIKE A LOCAL
WHERE TO STAY
The five-star Memmo Príncipe Real boutique hotel ( 1) claims to have the best views of Lisbon – and it doesn’t disappoint. Concealed behind a cobbled street, its 41 suites are suitably contemporary: check out the huge rain showers and Hermès toiletries in the bathrooms. Take the hotel’s free city tour – it’s a wonderfully welcoming introduction to Lisbon (rooms from £205 per night; memmohotels.com). Baixa House ( 2), situated in an 18th-century villa, sits at the heart of the city’s shopping and sightseeing mecca. Its 12 airy apartments have a modern feel, with traditional artisanal details such as Portuguese patterned tiles. Expect fresh bread delivered to your door, a fridge stocked with the essentials and all your home comforts (apartments from £151 for three nights; baixahouse.com).
DAY TO NIGHT
Amble around leafy Príncipe Real to peruse the many design shops and galleries – we love the selection of new and covetable brands at 21pr Concept Store ( 4) and the neo-moorish surroundings of Embaixada ( 8), a shopping centre housed in a 17th-century mansion that showcases mostly Portuguese brands. Then head down the hill to Chiado, a modern shopping district, where fashion houses and historic cafes sit beside museums, bookshops and smart restaurants. As night falls, head into the nearby Bairro Alto ( 3), the city’s edgy nocturnal neighbourhood. This warren of cobbles and sun-bleached buildings bustles with bohemian bars, and is the home of traditional Fado music (soulful melodies with melancholic lyrics).
LOCAL DELICACIES
Manteigaria bakery ( 9) in Chiado is the place to sample Portugal’s famous pastel de nata ( left), an egg tart with a crisp, melt-in-the-mouth pastry. Wait for the bell to ring – that’s when a fresh batch is served from the oven. Head to a local supermarket or deli to try the Portuguese cheese: São Jorge is considered among one of the best in the country, and the spicy Beira Baixa cheese made from sheep’s or goat’s milk is a delight. For dinner, book a table at Can the Can ( 5) on Praça do Comércio and savour its unexpected signature delicacy: tinned sardines (canthecan.net).
ART AND CULTURE
Just a short stroll from Baixa – a magnificent mix of Art Deco-fronted stores, tobacconists, cafes and boutiques – is an imposing 18th-century arcade that leads to Praça do Comércio ( 6), said to be the largest city square in Europe. From here, scale the hill (or take the tram) to the Moorish São Jorge Castle ( 10), a citadel with striking battlement vistas, surrounded by the shops and taverns of Alfama. On the way, you’ll see the rose-windowed Lisbon Cathedral ( 11) – the city’s oldest building – and further up the hill is the Decorative Arts Museum ( 7), housed within the 17th-century Azurara Palace and showcasing Portuguese crafts such as gilding, woodcarving and bookbinding. Beyond the castle is the National Pantheon Church ( 12).
POP IN FOR A DRINK
Gin Lovers & Less ( 13)– a bar, restaurant and shop – is a true haven for gin enthusiasts. Across the road is Lost In, a terrace bar within an Indian emporium – nestled next to the Memmo Príncipe Real hotel, it shares its incredible views. Just a short stroll from here is Pavilhão Chinês ( 14), a kooky bar stuffed with toys, hanging airplanes and military uniforms. ED