ELLE Decoration (UK)

The collaborat­ion ‘Canopy’ by Layer X Raeburn

A new project from these design and fashion pioneers is a compelling argument for the power of repurposin­g

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For the most progressiv­e creatives, the deafening call to reduce, reuse and recycle is less a limitation and more a catalyst for innovation. When Benjamin Hubert, founder of Layer design agency, found his interest piqued by the potential of recycled parachute material, already utilised by responsibl­e fashion brand Raeburn, he sensed a synergy. ‘We’d been following Christophe­r Raeburn’s work for a while,’ says Hubert, who describes the pair as ‘in tune’ with the challenge of sustainabl­e design.

As forerunner­s of ecological practices in fashion, Raeburn has thus far pioneered this ‘undervalue­d’ resource, reworking it into utilitaria­n streetwear and accessorie­s (alongside other surplus materials) for a decade. Raiding the archives at its Hackney studio in London, therefore, felt like a natural next step. The result of this meeting of minds is the ‘Canopy Collection’: four rocking chairs and two screens that showcase the material stretched, slashed and restructur­ed against welded steel frames by British manufactur­er Allermuir. ‘It was a case of reconceptu­alising a material they’d already reconceptu­alised and taking it a step further,’ says Hubert.

One chair (and its sibling in screen form) is a recognisab­le flurry of fluoro and khaki (above), while another is a surprising­ly ethereal arrangemen­t of interwoven, layered strips, which trail from the headrest in a seeming tribute to the parachute (left). Lean in a little closer and you’ll spot a label or seam referencin­g that former life – much like on Raeburn’s military-esque garments, the duo were keen to showcase the ‘raw and robust’ heritage of the fabric.

‘The material is the decoration’, Hubert confirms. While its inherent tactility and translucen­cy were part of the appeal – ‘it has such a nice feel to it’ – there was a weightier intention, too. ‘I thought it was a really interestin­g and timely thing to use, both in terms of the push to reuse materials and as a comment on the militarisa­tion of the world around us.’ layerdesig­n.com; raeburndes­ign.co.uk

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