Gabriel Waterhouse
The chef launched supper club The Water House Project in 2015. In September, it moved to a permanent space in Bethnal Green
Increasingly, guests want a connection with who is cooking for them. It feels as though we’re moving towards a warmer style of hospitality. Open kitchens have become popular, which is good for guests and staff.
There’s been a move towards simple food done well. I’m a fan, but it does mean you have to get it absolutely right. Post-pandemic, there’s been a shift towards creating smaller restaurants that are more capable of quickly adapting to our ever-changing world.
Ingredient excitement changes with the seasons. Our monthly menus utilise different types of fish, cuts of meat and loads of veg and fruit, which can be cooked in different ways to create new textures and flavours.
One of the most undervalued ingredients are mussels. They’re versatile, easy to cook and come with plenty of natural seasoning and flavour. They filter the water, so they’re good for the environment, too.
As chefs, we’re lucky in Britain. I’ve been fortunate to work with many nationalities, but I’ve sensed those from countries with a richer culinary history than ours find it harder to have an open mind when creating dishes.
The biggest challenge in the industry has got to be staffing. Hospitality has taken a double blow with Covid and Brexit. Others have simply left the industry, unwilling to return to the notoriously gruelling hours.
Some of the best advice I’ve had was from Warren Geraghty at Galvin La Chapelle. I’d said that the first few weeks hadn’t been easy. He replied, ‘Nothing worth it ever is.’
I’m always inspired by Simon Rogan. His dishes are so balanced – he knows when to stop. What Merlin Labron-Johnson is creating at Osip in Bruton looks special, and I’m a big admirer of growing and cooking your own produce. It’s something I’d love to achieve (thewaterhouseproject.com)
‘IT FEELS AS THOUGH WE’RE MOVING TOWARDS A WARMER STYLE OF HOSPITALITY’