Q&A / Lucia Pica

MEET THE NAPLES-BORN MAKE-UP ARTIST DISRUPTING TRADITIONAL COLOUR PALETTES AND FINDING INSPIRATION IN IMPERFECTION

Giving Kristen Stewart a red smoky eye, looking for colour inspiration while walking the streets of Paris, and being known for her naughty sense of humour, Lucia Pica has marked herself out as a subverter in the sometimes all-too-safe beauty industry. As Chanel’s Global Creative Designer of Make-up and Colour, she believes make-up should never be used as a mask to hide behind: ‘Whether the look is natural or more pushed, I like to retain the modernity and character of the woman in my work, because I want to be able to relate to the person I portray.’ ELLE meets Lucia as her radical new Chanel Ombre Première eye collection launches.

WOMEN ARE OBSESSED with make-up; they love it so much – although there are those who are scared of wearing too much. I don’t think [make-up] is unfeminist. You don’t have to look a certain way to have a set of ideals.

SOMETIMES YOU CAN’T necessarily express everything with words, but it’s very obvious when you see something and you know it’s just got to be ‘that red’, for example. I’m always looking around for inspiration: at fashion shoots, in magazines and at art exhibitions. I even find things like rust very inspiring for colour and texture.

I’M FASCINATED BY WOMEN who do their make-up on the tube. But I’ve never done it myself. I might have done mine in the car when I’ve been running late, but it’s an intimate moment, one that’s nice to have to yourself.

I FEEL VERY CLOSE TO Kristen Stewart; there’s a connection between us and a respect for one other. She’s smart, very intuitive, and she’s a strong woman. When I work with her she’s there – she’s present and is always asking me how I achieve a look.

SPENDING A VERY INTENSE amount of time with someone doing their make-up, there is an instant intimacy, much more so than in normal life.

GROWING UP, I EXPLORED different looks: a shaved head, coloured hair… I had my moments. I plucked my eyebrows until there was almost nothing left – that was bad. I’m lucky they grew back!

MY PARENTS WERE SURPRISED I chose the path I did. I have three older brothers and was the first to leave Naples – I was 20, which for Italy is quite young. But I felt this need for independence. I wanted to explore.

MY FIRST IMPRESSION OF LONDON was, ‘Wow! No one is looking at me.’ I went out in these crazy yellow and black trousers and I felt comfortable. There’s such a strong sense of individuality in the city; you feel more free.

I DIDN’T GO TO ART SCHOOL. I did a make-up course, then started assisting Charlotte Tilbury. My crowd of friends – Alasdair McLellan, Angelo Pennetta, Julia Sarr-Jamois – are all quite naughty. I like personality and spirit in people, and I especially like women with a good sense of humour.

I CAN PLAY THE REALLY feminine woman, but I feel quite comfortable in men’s clothes, like jackets or suits. My dad was a style inspiration when I was growing up in the Eighties – he always wore a suit with a polo neck.

SOMETIMES I DOUBT MYSELF – but

I think you have to. If you’re sure about everything, there is no discovery; you don’t find the next thing. Your eyes have to be wide open all the time.