THE FOOD

STOCK UP WITH MAAKOODA, deep-fried potato cakes, eaten either on their own or squished with egg into flat bread, with a dollop of harissa for a bit of zing. Make sandwiches with zaalouk, a spread made with aubergine, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and spices, or with fried sardines on baghira bread (a bit like crumpets). And when energy wanes, the ubiquitous sweet mint tea will revive.