MY FASHIONABLE LIFE: ISABEL MARANT

THE FRENCH DESIGNER, 53, ON IDOLISING PATTI SMITH, INVENTING THE WEDGE TRAINER AND WHY SHE TREATS CLOTHING AS PIECES OF ART

The designer talks us through a life spent in fashion, from inventing the wedge trainer to why she treats clothes as pieces of art

DRESSING LIKE A TYPICAL GIRL NEVER APPEALED TO ME.

I refused to wear dresses and loved wearing my dad’s paisley patterned robes and slippers until I was 11. I was drawn to the silky fabrics and how oversized they were – perfect for someone who hated appearing too feminine. That sense has stayed with me. I instinctively began to dress in my tomboy style; it let me stand out.

PATTI SMITH WAS–ANDALWAYS WILL BE–MY INSPIRATION.

As a kid I hid my face with a long fringe, just like she did. I often felt unattractive – especially compared to my brother, who was the pretty one of the family – so I needed something hide behind. Now I’m older, I hate having any hair in my face and always tie it up in a bun.

AS A TEEN, I’D PUT CORK IN MY STAN SMITHS TO MAKE MYSELF TALLER.

Later, this gave me the idea for the Bekett hiddenwedge trainers. I was very influenced by hip hop at the time and loved the look of a woman’s legs sticking out of fat, chunky sneakers. Sure, heels make your legs look nice, but I’d rather be comfortable.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WAS EVERYTHING I WANTED PARIS TO BE.

As a teenager, everyone in Paris did the Eighties polished look with heavy make-up and shoulder pads. I wasn’t interested in that. I’d press myself against Vivienne Westwood’s shop window, longing for the punkish boho trends from England. My first designer piece was a skirt from her and Malcolm McLaren’s 1984 Worlds End collection.

MY LOVE OF MUSIC LED ME TO FASHION.

British bands such as The Clash, Sex Pistols, Dexys Midnight Runners and Joy Division were my favourites. My friends and I would study their looks and experiment with clothes bought from flea markets, which we reworked depending on the clubs we were going to. Friends started asking me to make clothes for them and it turned into my first collection. It was only then that I discovered being a designer was a real job.

MY FIRST FASHION SHOW WAS NEARLY SHUT DOWN.

It was for my spring/summer 1995 show at Paris Fashion Week. We organised for it to take place in a derelict building, but the authorities rescinded their approval at the last minute. I had already sent out the invitations so we went through with it anyway, but I was freaking out. It ended up being an amazing day, with all my friends cast as models.

MY FASHION PHILOSOPHY IS TO ONLY DESIGN CLOTHES THAT I WOULD WEAR MYSELF.

I constantly ask myself, ‘What do I need? What do I want to wear?’ I’ll always remember Marie Rucki – my brilliant but tough tutor at Studio Berçot fashion college – forcing us to wear our designs for a week to make us understand the meaning of wearability. Now, I only wear clothes I’ve designed.

I HAVE NO INTEREST IN EVENING WEAR.

I rarely dress up and usually wear jeans with a T-shirt during the day. My most beloved piece of clothing is a white Mister Freedom sweatshirt I bought in Los Angeles 2O years ago. It’s torn to pieces but I can’t seem to throw it away.

I BUY CLOTHES AS PIECES OF ART.

The most expensive item I own is a Christian Lacroix trench. I’ve never worn it, but it’s so beautifully made. I can’t resist the beauty of a piece, even if I know it’s not for me.