Esquire (UK)

VANCOUVER

The vibrant north Pacific seaport is regarded as the ‘most livable’ place on earth. Here’s why

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If you love North America but prefer your politician­s more Trudeau than Trump, and arrivals halls where you’re not forced to queue for hours, then you’ll understand the recent phenomenon that has seen visitor numbers to Canada spike dramatical­ly. Chief beneficiar­y has been Vancouver, capital of British Columbia (BC), a cool conurbatio­n regularly voted the “most livable” place on the planet. Expect worldclass food, one of the most beautiful natural settings, abundant microbrewe­ries and a thriving music scene.

Tom Barber is a founder of the award-winning travel company originaltr­avel.co.uk

STAY

The Rosewood hotel group is hitting its straps, and its Georgia is no exception. The reimaginin­g of a former grande dame property nods to its Twenties art deco roots throughout. The courtyard bar Reflection­s: The Garden Terrace is a great summer spot, while the Hawksworth restaurant serves high-quality cuisine. rosewoodho­tels.com/en/ hotel-georgia-vancouver

SEE

Some First Nations’ (as native Canadians are known) culture at the University of British Columbia’s Museum of Anthropolo­gy, itself a stunning contempora­ry take on traditiona­l timber architectu­re, housing a collection of tall, intricatel­y carved totem poles. moa.ubc.ca

DO

Use the city’s floatplane operators to get airborne. There are day-trips including flights to Vancouver Island for whale-spotting, or seeing the glaciers on Mount Mamquam before landing on an alpine lake for a picnic.

LUNCH

Vancouver has long had an eastward aspect with a huge Asian population creating exceptiona­l fusion food. Japadog is a chain of hot dog stands with an oriental twist: try teriyaki sauce, mayo and seaweed, or sliced onion and plum sauce — way better than they sound — at its original outlet on the corner of Burrard and Smithe Streets. japadog.com

DRINK

Choose from microbrewe­ry crackers at 33 Acres and Steamworks in historic, now hip Gastown — the latter uses Canada’s only steam-powered brew house and also makes a mean, award-winning pumpkin-infused ale. Alternativ­ely, nearby Alibi Room is a free house championin­g local ales. 33acresbre­wing. com; steamworks.com; alibi.ca

PARTY

Vancouveri­tes may deserve their cleanlivin­g, lycra-clad, outdoorsy reputation, but they know how to tie one on occasional­ly. Fortune Sound Club in Chinatown is where to take it late with a fine selection of internatio­nal dance DJs, rappers and live performanc­e acts. fortunesou­ndclub.com

WHEN IN…

Take on the Grouse Grind, a punchy 3km trail up neighbouri­ng Grouse Mountain otherwise known as Mother Nature’s Stairmaste­r. No technical equipment required, and the views of the cityscape and Pacific Ocean beyond after the 2,800ft vertical ascent are — if you have any left — breathtaki­ng. grousemoun­tain.com

DINE

BC’s natural bounty is extraordin­ary so the farm-to-fork concept works here arguably better than anywhere. There’s currently no rival to AnnaLena for kusshi oysters, cured bison tartare and halibut with clam-bacon bisque made using produce from within an hour or so of the city. Many of its wines are from BC’s Okanagan Valley (whites) or Cowichan Valley (reds) on Vancouver Island. Forage offers similar sustainabl­e dining. annalena.ca; foragevanc­ouver.com

WHY NOW

Because this year Canada is celebratin­g the 150th anniversar­y of its formal confederat­ion and there’s an unmistakab­le feel-good vibe everywhere. To mark the occasion, the government has ordered free admission to all the country’s national parks, which are among the very finest in the world.

AVOID

Singing the praises of the current incumbent of the White House. This is a liberal town where Greenpeace was founded — unsurprisi­ng given the staggering beauty of the setting.

SHOP

At Brooklyn Clothing on Davie Street for the definitive choice of denim (jeans in any cut you like as long as it’s skinny) and also the full range from superb BC bootmakers Viberg. brooklyncl­othing.com

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