CONTRAMAR

Mexico City

How to choose a favourite place in one of the greatest eating cities on Earth? Near impossible,as wonderful tucker lurks on every corner. But as I said in my introduction, this is about my favourite

restaurants, so all those taco stands and street carts must be left for another list.

But Contramar, deep in La Condesa, is the place I return to again and again. The room is light and wide, with simple tables clad in pristine cloths. A huge azure mural dominates one end, its spikily etched swimmers leaving no-one in doubt as to what this place does best — fish, and lots of it.

The aguachiles (Mexican ceviche) are sharp and chilli laced, but the quality of the

“just cooked” fish always shines through. Tuna tostadas come with black beans and chipotle mayonnaise: two bites of crisp crunch and soft, smoky flesh; there’s a surprisingly delicate spicy shrimp broth, and fine fish tacos, plus pescado a la talla, a whole grilled fish, where one half is coated in Red Chile Adobo, the other in a viridescent parsley rub. OK, so sometimes standards can drop and service can be slapdash. But Contramar is a Mexico City institution, a place where young and old alike, well-heeled and T-shirt clad, come to gossip, flirt, drink and eat. It’s a scene you’ll want to chew right up, forever.

‘THIS BASTARD’S A BUILDER, CREEPING AND GROWING UNTIL TEARS STREAM DOWN YOUR FACE, AND EVEN THINKING HURTS’