Esquire (UK)

The science behind Acqua di Parma’s scent

The science behind a luxury fragrance

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Launched in 1999, Acqua di Parma’s Cipresso di Toscana, the first of its fresh, lively Blu Mediterran­eo line, quickly attained cult status. But despite its popularity, the scent was discontinu­ed in 2012 to make way for new additions to the collection. Admirers of it did not forget, though, and thanks to the persistenc­e of fans like Mats Klingberg, founder of London’s Trunk Clothiers, the fragrance is set for a glorious return this summer. Here, Paola Paganini, Acqua di Parma’s product developmen­t and innovation director, breaks down the fragrance’s six key ingredient­s, to explain what makes it so effective.

Blu Mediterran­eo Cipresso di Toscana, £98/150ml, by Acqua di Parma

① Lavandin

“From the same family as lavender, lavandin is less soapy than lavender, although still fragrant while adding a subtle hint of rosemary to the scent.”

② Star anise

“Spicy with liquorice undertones, it’s from a plant grown in the eastern Mediterran­ean. It’s a bridge between top and bottom notes, bringing harmony to all the ingredient­s.”

③ Elemi

“A tree resin that is often used in aromathera­py. It is peppery with green, spicy notes and a distinctiv­e citrus undertone that is both fragrant and masculine.”

④ Cypress

“A tree found along the coast of Tuscany, it possesses a strong scent with notes of balsamic, salt and sea breeze. It brings energy to the fragrance, and a sense of clean air.”

⑤ Sage

“Works in perfect harmony with lavandin. We source it from shrubs growing close to the French Riviera. The proximity to the sea adds an earthy, salty and very aromatic quality to the herb.”

⑥ Orange and petitgrain

“Oranges from the south of Italy are zesty and a little sweet. We mix them with petitgrain oil from leaves and flowers of bitter orange trees. Think of it as the flower of citrus.”

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