Esquire (UK)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 25th Anniversar­y

Style icon celebrates silver success

- Johnny Davis

Occasional­ly, even we find it hard to distinguis­h one fancy watch from another. The Royal Oak is not one such watch. With its sharp angles, visible steampunk screws, rugged bolted bracelet and guilloche-engraved dial, it is a timepiece like no other. An immediate hit when it launched in the early Seventies, its prosperity was anything but guaranteed. Made of steel, modelled on a diving helmet and costing ten times more than a Rolex Submariner, it was instantly the most expensive sports watch out there. In 1993, Audemars Piguet doubled down on the success of the Royal Oak with the introducti­on of a chronograp­h version, still large, rugged and waterproof, but arguably even more aspiration­al.

This year, AP returns to the origin of the Royal Oak Offshore, with a 25th anniversar­y re-edition that keeps the original diameter, a not-inconsider­able 42mm, and that feels remarkably similar to the original in other ways, too. Minor changes include a new clasp and an updated movement. This one is fitted with a stunning 22K gold rotor but it’s not there for show — it’s hidden behind a closed case back. There are also two new limited models of the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograp­h in stainless steel or 18k pink gold.

CEO François-Henry Bennahmias has said his next step is venturing into a new market for Audemars Piguet, likely launching in 2020. “Pre-owned, second hand,” he says. “This becomes a huge, huge market and I think it’s going to become the next big thing in the watch industry. We are testing now, as we speak. Today, we are focusing on the new watch business but then we will go after the second-hand market and maybe after tomorrow there will be something else,” he says.

He’s talking about auctions: rare AP’s being put up for bidding by the company? “Yes.” Those of you with wallets and patience large enough may want to hang on for a couple of years for the chance an original 1993 Royal Oak Offshore will be made available by its makers. In the meantime, you can be more than content with 2018’s 25th Anniversar­y edition, as handsome a sports watch as we’ve come to recognise.

£33,000; audemarspi­guet.com

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