Esquire (UK)

Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547

Relaunched heritage classic with the sea at its heart

- Johnny Davis

“This year Breguet continues to showcase the brand’s ability to reinvent itself,” says CEO Thierry Esslinger. He cites homages to Abraham Louis-Breguet, the 18th-century inventor whose clientele included Louis XVII, George IV, Alexander I of Russia and Queen Marie Antoinette, whose “Marie Antoinette” watch featured every complicati­on then known and took 20 years to complete.

It’s a fair legacy to live up to, which the Swiss watch and jewellery brand has strived to do for more than 240 years. In 2018, Breguet’s biggest launch is its redesigned La Marine collection: the Marine 5517, the Marine Chronograp­h 5527 and the Marine Alarm Musicale 5547. All three are now available with a titanium case, a first, and chosen for its resistance to salty air and corrosion. The Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 seen here houses three complicati­ons, including a second time zone and date. With nods to the maritime world, the gold variations feature a “wave” engine-turned motif on the dial that encases an opening at 12 o’clock where a ship’s bell indicates that the striking mechanism has been triggered. Further marine design details include an oscillatin­g weight inspired by a ship’s wheel, while the movement is reminiscen­t of a ship deck. The watch is available in several versions, including a white gold case with a blue dial, a rose gold model with a silvered dial and a titanium version featuring a slate grey dial. All three models come with a choice of leather or rubber strap.

“The new Marine line is part of our plans to unveil a new chapter in the brand’s history,” says Esslinger, citing a partnershi­p with the Race for Water Foundation, which has been carrying out scientific research on the marine ecological balance since 2010, reducing plastics littering the ocean, protecting oceanic species and promoting new sources of income for those affected by plastic pollution. “In the early 19th century, timekeepin­g played a pivotal role in maritime navigation and we are continuing that tradition,” Esslinger says. “We have committed the brand to sponsor the vessel, the Race for Water Odyssey [a round-the-world ecological expedition studying marine pollution] through to its completion in 2021.”

£30,700; breguet.com

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