Esquire (UK)

Carl F Bucherer The Manero Flyback

The past and future of watchmakin­g

- Max Olesker

“In 2018, we celebrate our 130th anniversar­y,” says Sascha Moeri, CEO of

Carl F Bucherer, the revered Swiss watchmaker which finally launched in the UK in November. “In this meaningful year, our collection­s and novelties are inspired by our precious heritage and our traditiona­l past.” The company’s rich past and commitment to state-of-the-art contempora­ry watchmakin­g are both embodied in the Manero Flyback, a fitting tribute to Carl F Bucherer’s banner year, and a stellar addition to the celebrated Manero collection.

“The Manero Flyback is a distinct, classic timepiece that makes a stylish statement,” says Moeri. With its gleaming sunburst finish, stainless steel, double-domed sapphire crystal case, a deep black dial, lancet-shaped polished steel-coloured hands and dark brown Louisiana alligator leather strap, no-one could ever accuse the Flyback of failing to be distinctiv­e or elegant.

“The complex CFB 1970 chronograp­h movement with flyback function ticks away inside the watch. It enables watch lovers to record consecutiv­e times in quick succession,” says Moeri. “The chronograp­h hands fly back to zero, while the movement continues to run in the background, allowing the hands to resume as soon as the reset button is released.” The movement, visible through the case back, operates via a gear wheel that’s been thermally blued — heated to approximat­ely 220°C, making it both distinctiv­ely blue and resistant to corrosion — a product of the firm’s in-house manufactur­e.

It’s a level of attention to detail synonymous with a company owned and run by its founding family since 1888. Today, Jörg G Bucherer is chairman of the board of directors, representi­ng the third generation at the helm and continuing the brand’s quest for technical advances. “This year, we presented our third calibre: the CFB T3000,” says Moeri. “It powers the new Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral, a timepiece that combines, for the first time in watchmakin­g, a peripheral-rotor automatic winding system with a ‘floating’ peripheral­ly mounted tourbillon.” Like the Flyback, it’s another refined example of how the brand seamlessly matches innovation to wearabilit­y.

£4,700; bucherer.com

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