Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref 5968

Innovation for the next generation

Like Ferrari, who ultimately get to decide who buys its fanciest supercars, Patek Philippe is in a position to vet the owners of its highest-end watches: where its grand complications and minute repeaters will end up. This keeps the brand on the wrists of the right collectors and prevents flipping on the resale market where appetite for its rarest timepieces — OK, all its timepieces — is ravenous.

The Swiss manufacture, founded in 1839 and considered one of the most prestigious and technically masterful watch companies of all, keeps production limited — demand always outstrips supply. This scarcely sees it resting on its laurels. And 2018 has so far proved a particularly good year for breaking new ground. Those with the right connections might be drawn to Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar Ref 5740/1G-001 Nautilus in white gold. The first time the brand has introduced a grand complication in its high-end, sporty Nautilus collection with a perpetual calendar integrated into the case.

Another highlight is this Aquanaut Chronograph Ref 5968A-001 in steel. “The chronograph is featured for the first time in the Aquanaut collection,” says UK managing director Mark Hearn. “This timepiece, like the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, features the newly developed fold-over clasp with four independent catches that make the opening and closing of the bracelet much more secure.”

With its orange accents and attention-grabbing rubber strap, Patek also continues to push forward by making watches for more fashion-conscious buyers — those who, as its famous advertisements suggest, never actually own a Patek but merely look after it for the next generation — a generation whose tastes are perhaps less conventionally “classic”. With its 60-minute counter and date window, it is one of the most casual Pateks launched for a long time. Of course, as with all things Patek, casual remains a relative term. Ferrari, as we all know, also makes supercars in orange. Johnny Davis

£29,300; patek.com