Taste of success
How a London-based Spanish restaurant cracked the culinary scene with its uniqueness, sophistication and performance
In an era where everyone can be everything (think DJs who are models who are also designers), it’s hard to remember a time when professionals focused on one speciality rather than myriad options. But behind the hustle and bustle of London’s King’s Cross Station, in the rejuvenated area of Coal Drops Yard, is the latest Barrafina, a contemporary Spanish kitchen that steers clear of the “do it all” trend in favour of a different kind of ethos.
“My philosophy is based on simplicity, seasonality and respect for the product,” says executive chef Angel Zapata Martin, as he slices an artichoke with the precision of a bomb disposal expert. “Whatever you see on the plate, you can identify. Very pure and simple.”
This doesn’t mean that it’s just a case of slapping some Serrano ham on a plate — the customers aren’t common house cats, after all. No, to put it paradoxically, Martin’s effortlessness is a little more sophisticated than that, as encapsulated by his three favourite dishes.
the cured monkfish — “This style of ceviche is something I used to make all the time in Catalonia. It’s one of the most popular dishes on the menu, and not just in the UK,” says Martin. “We’ve run popups in New York and Singapore and it was very successful there too.”
It’s almost a shame to disturb the layered decoration of a dish that looks more like it should be hanging on a wall than placed on a table. The monkfish is cured in salt, sugar, Fino sherry and paprika, then adorned with date purée, avocado mousse and sun-dried tomatoes, which have a subtle ginger aftertaste. And Martin’s statement is true: you can identify everything after one bite; nothing is amiss. It is what it is — and what it is is good food.
the salt cod a la catalana — “When I first tasted this, I knew it was a flavour I would not forget. Now, artichokes and romesco are two ingredients I always keep with me.”
Martin’s adoration for artichokes stems from his hometown of Barcelona. They’re commonplace in Spanish cooking, so Martin knows what he’s doing when he teams them with salted cod and a fragrant romesco sauce — both of which are amplified by the addition of pickled chillies on top.
the ham croquetas — “Croquetas are something so traditional, so unique. They have a lot of respect, so you have to keep them as they are. You have to appreciate traditions.”
Think of a mac and cheese ball fit for royalty and you’ve got the idea of this luxury take on the classic croqueta. It’s filled with chunks of Spanish jamon and oozing with a rich bechamel sauce. Crispy and golden on the outside, delightfully moist on the inside, this is a starter so decadent you’ll find it hard not to place the entire thing in your mouth and demolish it in one bite.
Word of Martin’s culinary performance has swept across London. On whatever day you visit, you’ll find the bar swarming with people methodically studying the menu, devising a plan among themselves of what dishes to share (or not share) in order to avoid food envy. Even on a Friday at 11.30am, while we’re shooting the dishes in the closed restaurant, hopeful customers are sticking their heads through the door asking if they can come in. But don’t bother searching online for a reservation form, as the establishment infamously doesn’t take bookings. However, there is a method to the madness.
“Ah, the no-reservations thing,” says co-founder Sam Hart, with a hint of a smirk. “The original bar only had 23 seats, so what you couldn’t do is have those 23 seats booked for 8pm and then just sit there waiting for people to turn up. We knew from the start that because the restaurant was so small we would have to have a no-reservations policy, which we were a bit nervous about.”
Sure, lines outside restaurants are great for creating a buzz, but that’s not what went through Hart’s mind when making this decision. In fact, it meant they could provide a better service. “People ask what the customer gets from it. The answer is that we have 12 people working on any service for 23 customers, so that’s a ratio of 1:2. The seated customer gets a lot of service and attention at a much lower price than they would do normally. We can afford to do that because we turn so many stools, so it works for both sides.”
This structure also fits in with the Spanish authenticity. As well as having Spanish chefs creating Spanish dishes, the way the place is set out is inspired by Hart’s own experience of the country. “The idea for Barrafina came from when I was living in Barcelona,” he reveals. “I discovered a restaurant that was basically an eating bar with all the cooking going on straight behind it. No tables, no reservations, just the freshest seafood — and I absolutely loved it.”
You feel this Spanish atmosphere resonating throughout the restaurant, in the openness of its layout with the exposed kitchen, the smell of roasted garlic that hits you upon entry and the chefs bantering as they chargrill over open flames. This all-access view means that Martin’s performance has to be flawless at all times. “Normally the kitchen is backstage, so it doesn’t matter because the customer is somewhere else,” says Hart. “Here, you’re putting it in front of them and looking them in the face, so we really have to up our game.”
But if you’re looking for signs of performance anxiety, you won’t find any here. Martin thrives on his audience’s gaze: “It’s tough work, but when I’m pressured I feel more relaxed. It’s just in my nature; it’s easy for me to keep calm and smile. Above the philosophy, most of all we want to make guests feel like they’re at home.”
With European airport lines looking likely to get a lot longer to wait in, Barrafina’s lack of reservations doesn’t seem like such a big price to pay. Being invited into this home is worth the wait.
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