The Italian job: Tod’s new men’s collection
At Tod’s, a young creative director channels the good life
“I have always loved the culture of Italian buongusto,” says Walter Chiapponi, “‘good taste’, especially for menswear. I love to see how Italian men really care about little details, such as a haircut or a perfectly brushed shoe.”
With a CV that includes Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu and Gucci, Chiapponi knows a thing or two about Italian high standards. At Tod’s, in his first creative director role, he has melded its footwear and accessories pedigree with a modern, readyto-wear collection full of big ideas, both delving into its archive and creating something new.
“At the heart of the collection is the very idea of good taste, intended not as a rule or limitation, but as a way of life,” he says. “I wanted to draw on Italy’s class and elegance by giving it a contemporary twist, to rediscover the classics, displaying elegance as an attitude, imprinted with a touch of gentle rebellion.
“For the Tod’s men’s collection, there are loafers with a thick rubber sole, vintage-style sneakers updated in unexpected colour combinations, and more formal styles with chunky, visible stitching. The military-inspired bags are spacious, ideal for travel. I used leather and waxed fabric together on backpacks, while the briefcases have a business-like, yet laid-back, appeal.”
Using a restrained European palate with 1970s swagger, Chiapponi’s debut men’s range is made for the good life. The coats are voluminous, the sunglasses are tinted; roll-necks are layered under big-collared polo shirts and the trousers come with a kick, a whisper of a flare.
“I am always inspired by people on the street,” he says. “I’m very curious about how they combine different looks and mix them in unexpected ways. To me, luxury means essentiality: refined materials, sophisticated cuts and no excessive decoration or ornaments.” ○