Snow on trend

The only thing in St Moritz more fabulous than the skiing is the shopping, finds

St Moritz has always been the glitziest, most glamorous of ski destinations. It’s the St Tropez of the Alps: the same high-society Euro crowd, but with everyone slathered in furs instead of tanning oil. I was excited by the prospect of a long weekend there, a chance to socialise with friends who were staying in town, do some serious shopping and a little skiing.

I stayed at the elegant and old-fashioned Kempinski Grand Hôtel des Bains – the lobby has had a contemporary overhaul but the dining room is all gilt and starched white tablecloths and the service is impeccable. Not having skied for years, I didn’t arrive in the manner of so many of my fellow guests, with sleighfuls of matching Louis Vuitton and Goyard luggage. Instead, I made a beeline for the local Ralph Lauren (well, what shops did you expect?) to restock my winter wardrobe – ski kit, gloves, hat, cashmere and cords for après-ski – before I was ready to join the social whirl.

Tragically, I soon learned that the Polo on Snow, the highlight of the winter season and my secret reason for making this pilgrimage into the mountains (have you seen professional polo players in the flesh? Oh my word), had been cancelled, along with the black-tie gala night. A milder than usual winter meant that the St Moritz lake

has a three-night St Moritz Ski Special Offer, including two- day ski passes, on a half-board basis, from CHF2,202 for two people sharing a Resort double room

For more information on St Moritz and Engadin, visit